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Luisenwand Rock Climbing 

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Location: 49.86896, 11.13689 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 176
Administrators: Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 18, 2015
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Looking along the cliff to the north from below Te...


This stunning wall of generally vertical limestone is set in a beautiful forest just south of Burggrub. The limestone is excellent, though not nearly as featured as most Frankenjura crags, resulting in an excellent assortment of thin, technical face climbs. Polished footholds are a noticeable problem here, and surely some of the more popular lines have become harder as a result. The north-facing crag has a wide, flat base and a great hang.

Apparently this crag was quite popular in the 80’s, though now only the classics see regular action. Wolfgang Gullich left his mark here with several test-pieces, especially Team Motivation, Kaum Zeit zum Atmen (the first Grade X in the Northern Frankenjura), and Kama Sutra 218. In 2008, Markus Bock brought the crag into the modern era when he linked an improbable line of shallow monos to create The Essential, XI (5.14d).

Getting There 

See directions on the Burggrub Page.

Climbing Season

For the Frankenjura area.

Weather station 14.4 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Luisenwand
Rock Climbing Photo: In middle of the crux bulge.

Team Motivation 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  Europe : Germany : ... : Luisenwand
This technical masterpiece resulted from a collaboration between three legends of German climbing, Wolfgang Gullich, Kurt Albert and Norman Batz. The rock is uncharacteristically monolithic, with only a few thin and shallow features marring an others impenetrable wall. The cliff itself is just barey less than vertical, with a slight bulge at mid-height providing a brief sequence of overhanging climbing, and the crux. The sequence is never obvious, weaving from side to side as it connects an i...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Luisenwand Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The right side of Luisenwand.  The rope is below K...
The right side of Luisenwand. The rope is below K...
Rock Climbing Photo: The left side of Luisenwand, with the rope on Team...
The left side of Luisenwand, with the rope on Team...

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