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Luhr's Route aka Right Dihedral 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Kurt Luhr
Page Views: 3,492
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Mar 29, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Joseffa Meir follows Luhr's Route, up under the bi...


This is the left-facing dihedral in Area 1 of the Side Areas. Decent climbing, but not the best rock. Start on a sport route and face climb past three bolts, only clipping the last two with 24" runners to give some pro for the first 20 feet. Then move into the dihedral and make some awkward moves to get going. Watch out for some loose blocks here. The rest of the climb is nice with good liebacking to the anchors. The technical crux is using some crimps past the bolts, but the awkward move in the dihedral is kinda hard, too.

Per Troy from Tooele: This route is located about 12 feet left of "Circle Square and the Triangle." I would admit that this route is much easier than it looks. Clip the starting bolts, long runner the last one before the crack, then enjoy the giant left arch. Clip a bomber chain anchor and lower. One rope will get you to the deck. Pretty clean, with a cool ledge to sit and have a smoke on about 50' up. Enjoy!!!

Eds. This was entered twice into the database. Now we've combined the 2 entries under the first entry.


Standard rack up to #4 Friend. Several shoulder slings for the first two bolts. 50m rope to lower off fixed anchor.

Per Troy from Tooele: Quickdraws, one long runner for the last bolt before you enter the crack system. Cams to 3.5", big cam is completely optional. Runners for the cams would prove useful.

Photos of Luhr's Route aka Right Dihedral Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo: The rope is on "Circle, Square, and the Trian...
The rope is on "Circle, Square, and the Trian...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jim on lead is just about done with the crux moves...
Jim on lead is just about done with the crux moves...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark raps down from the right dihedral.  Climbing ...
Mark raps down from the right dihedral. Climbing ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Joseffa Meir follows, about 1/2 way up the long an...
Joseffa Meir follows, about 1/2 way up the long an...

Comments on Luhr's Route aka Right Dihedral Add Comment
Show which comments
By Frank Stock
Jun 5, 2001

Very fun route. When it looks like it might get hard there is always a huge jug. The traverse under the arch to the anchors has huge feet. Pretty generously graded -no where near that difficult.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 12, 2002

This has also been called "Luhr's Route?" 5.8 start? 5.7 rest? Fun. Looks harder than it turns out to be. Enjoy.
By Mikelsons Mikelsons
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 28, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The crux is climbing past the two bolts at the start. It's balancy slab climbing, but not too hard. The dihedral is a blast. There's lot's of variety and several options for climbing. I cleaned it and climbed it with stemming and jamming while facing left. My friend Wayne on his third day of climbing ever top-roped it. He faced right, into the crack, and jammed it.
By boydpainting
From: Estes Park CO
Nov 20, 2009

No more difficult than 5.8 at the start(first two bolts). The rest climbs at a nice 5.6+ or .7-. IMO, If the arch is keeping you from climbing this, well, shit I say climb it! If you can slab a little 5.8, you should have the crack dialed.
By Alexander Nees
From: Grand Junction, CO
Sep 23, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Good climbing, with excellent rock. Don't know if it's cleaned up since the original description was written, but this is a really nice climb now.
By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Apr 22, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Though the description says to only clip the first two bolts, I found it nice to clip all three, putting a double length sling on the 3rd. This will keep you protected pulling the moves into the corner, otherwise you are soloing at that point if you only clip the first two.
By george wilkey
From: travelers rest sc
Jun 15, 2013

Fun climb but no more than 5.8.
By Cameron Turner
From: Eagle
Apr 29, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route, worth doing. Gets easier the higher you go.
By Chabot
From: CO
Jul 25, 2015

The first bolt is now on the ground at the base of the climb. It appears the bolt was placed in a flake that detached. The moves are now easier, because there is a big ledge where the break happened, but the ledge you have to pull up on/stand on is very delicate (bends easily in your hand on left side and hollow when tapped). We propped up the bolted flake at the base of the climb to give others fair warning.

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