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Rappel Rock
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Baradur T 
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Black Magic Woman T 
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Corner, The T 
Helm's Deep T 
Lude T 
Main Gate T 
Not So Easy Arch T 
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Rotissima Bueno T 
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Voodoo Child S 
Voodoo Child (direct start) T 
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YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ray Ringle, 1977
Page Views: 670
Submitted By: John Steiger on Aug 17, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>


Named after the source of a night's diversion (it was the 70s), this route climbs an attractive hanging corner past a small roof on the left side of Rappel Rock. This may be RR's first 5.11 FA lead, which naturally we rated 5.10 at the time, even though none of us could follow it. The crux is brief and well-protected by gear and a pin (although, uh, if the pin is still there, it is now 34 years old!). I don't think RR would mind if the pin was replaced with a nice fat bolt.


When walking along the base of Rappel from the west, skirt past an obvious right-slanting 3rd class ramp until the wall gets steeper. Look for a hanging dihedral, presumably with a fixed pin, before reaching Baradur.


Standard trad rack. Gear belay.

Comments on Lude Add Comment
Show which comments
By greg k
Jul 12, 2015

38 years later the pin still looks surprisingly solid. there is a green c3 slot just a couple of inches below this relic if one is so inclined.
the rock was great and the crux "thoughtful"!
By Paul Davidson
May 19, 2016

This is a must do classic!
By Dj telle
From: Tucson, Arizona
Jun 8, 2017

I thought I'd run into some sort of anchors since we were still craggin so we just rapped clean off a chicken head leaving nothing behind. Really fun climbing on this one

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