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Bracksiek's Pillar
Routes Sorted
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Alpinista Sista S 
B Bro T,S 
Coo Coo Cachoo S 
Cool Crack T 
Crack Class  T 
Eye-Full Tower S 
High Center S 
L'il Buckeroo S 
Lucy in the Sky T 
Mano Izquierda S 
Mid-Eye Collision T,S 
Oatmeal Stout T 
Pre-Emptive Strike S 
Twilight Years S 

Lucy in the Sky 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: ?, before 2008
Page Views: 73
Submitted By: John Steiger on Jul 16, 2015

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING MORE INFO >>>


This is the attractive finger crack in a left-facing corner above the first pitch of Alpinista Sista. Unfortunately, the climbing is not as enjoyable as it looks because the crack is abrasive and the surrounding face is grainy. From the spacious ledge atop the first pitch of Alpinista, face climb to the crack then persevere until several feet below a tree. Step out left and join the last few moves of Alpinista to the chains, or if a real glutton for punishment, lunge for the tree then ascend the mossy, rotten, wide crack above.


Second pitch variation to Alpinista Sista.


Set of nuts and cams to hand-size. Microcams useful. Lower/rap from Alpinsta Sista's chains to the starting ledge.

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By John Steiger
Jul 21, 2015

The on-line CRSP Zone 2 guide gives this an alternative name, Noise Pollution. Anyone know the story?

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