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Lucy in the Sky 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 3,409
Submitted By: Baikenbitz on May 2, 2010

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Dave leading Lucy in the Sky.


150' feet of fun climbing. First pitch is more enjoyable than the second. If you top out, rappel down to the ledge, then pull the rope, and rap of the ledge. Or trail a second rope, and do it all in one rap.


Located directly after the trail splits to go to either North Face or the Alley. Go to the North Face, and walk around the nose, and you will see a string of draws going up a darker section of rock. This is Lucy in the Sky. It is the tallest section of the rock as well.


10-12 draws... 15 feet between the bolts is the norm. First pitch ends on a ledge with open cold shuts

Photos of Lucy in the Sky Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Beehive at 4th bolt.  Dormant in the winter months...
Beehive at 4th bolt. Dormant in the winter months...
Rock Climbing Photo: Anchors for Green Eggs & Ham, Lucy in the Sky, Son...
Anchors for Green Eggs & Ham, Lucy in the Sky, Son...

Comments on Lucy in the Sky Add Comment
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By Reece Henson
From: Knoxville, TN
Jul 12, 2010

you don't need 10-12 draws unless you do it all in one pitch. so if you only have 8 draws you'll be fine if you pitch both out
By Garrett Gregg
May 1, 2013

The bees are still there at the 4th bolt. You can go around to the left.
By Keegan McCormick
From: Hixson, TN
Jul 22, 2013

Attempted going to the far left of the bees at the 4th bolt, partner was swarmed and had to bail.
By khowe
From: Knoxville, TN
Aug 4, 2013

Define swarmed? I'm wanting to give Lucy in the Sky a shot soon, but it sounds like it may not be worth the risk! Any viable solutions to this bee issue at the 4th bolt?
By adoit90
From: Atlanta, GA
Feb 13, 2014

Does anywone know if the bees are still a problem here? I'm interested, but not if there's a chance of getting swarmed.
By adoit90
From: Atlanta, GA
Mar 3, 2014

Hey Khowe, did you get a chance to check on the bees? Also, do you know what kind of anchors there are at the top of the second pitch? I saw there's cold shuts at the top of the first, but I haven't found anything about the 2nd anchors anywhere.
By khowe
From: Knoxville, TN
Mar 11, 2014

No bee activity (March 11, 2014).
By Bob Rob
May 31, 2015

The honey bee nest looks pretty huge and active as of May 30, 2015. Our leader went around to the left and placed some gear without getting stung. You could probably follow a similar route without placing any pieces. Don't fall on the fifth bolt or you will land in bee city!

Unfortunately, the rap line from the hanging belay anchor near the top seems like it will take you right past the bees. If you top out there are some eye bolts on the side of the fin. We replaced the manky cord and extended it over the top to the opposite side of the fin. We then used two ropes to rap down into the alley just to be safe on length.

But this is really a great route and worth doing. I was very impressed. We did it in one pitch plus the 10 foot run to the top out. The bees and anchor replacement made it feel a little adventurous, so be confident if you try.
By Jim Urbec
From: sevierville, TN
Oct 17, 2016

climbed this yesterday.

bees were definitely still there, cooler temps kept activity low but definitely not dormant or dead. move past quick and you be fine.

great two pitch climb.

bolts and anchors looked great. there is an old set of chains just below the top, clip it and continue to actual top.
By Kim Ran
Dec 11, 2016

This is a great climb! The bees are now dormant, and it looked like the beehive was knocked off because only the top of it was remaining. Hopefully they don't return in the spring...

The first pitch is straightforward face climbing with plenty of large, friendly holds. There is a slight run out between bolts, so make sure the leader is solid on the sharp end.

The belay ledge is comfy, with plenty of room to stand. The first bolt to the second pitch can be reached from the ledge which is nice. I do warn that it is VERY difficult for the climber to communicate with the belayer due to the noise of the highway and wind, so make sure you agree on a plan before heading up the second pitch. Off the ledge, I followed the jugs up and right, but my partner went up and left and thought that was easier.

The second pitch is definitely easier than the first, minus the somewhat intimidating moves off the ledge. Once you make it to the set of rusty chains, clip them but continue up about ten feet to top out the climb. I went right up a ramp to top out which felt pretty solid and secure. The eye bolts are on the left.

Great view and awesome exposure! We did two rappels with a 60m to descend.

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