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Lucy in the Sky 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,993
Submitted By: Baikenbitz on May 2, 2010

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Beehive at 4th bolt. Dormant in the winter months...

Description 

150' feet of fun climbing. First pitch is more enjoyable than the second. If you top out, rappel down to the ledge, then pull the rope, and rap of the ledge. Or trail a second rope, and do it all in one rap.

Location 

Located directly after the trail splits to go to either North Face or the Alley. Go to the North Face, and walk around the nose, and you will see a string of draws going up a darker section of rock. This is Lucy in the Sky. It is the tallest section of the rock as well.

Protection 

10-12 draws... 15 feet between the bolts is the norm. First pitch ends on a ledge with open cold shuts


Photos of Lucy in the Sky Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim rapping off Lucy in the Sky.
Tim rapping off Lucy in the Sky.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave leading Lucy in the Sky.
Dave leading Lucy in the Sky.
Rock Climbing Photo: Anchors for Green Eggs & Ham, Lucy in the Sky, Son...
Anchors for Green Eggs & Ham, Lucy in the Sky, Son...

Comments on Lucy in the Sky Add Comment
Show which comments
By Reece Henson
From: Knoxville, TN
Jul 12, 2010

you don't need 10-12 draws unless you do it all in one pitch. so if you only have 8 draws you'll be fine if you pitch both out
By Garrett Gregg
May 1, 2013

The bees are still there at the 4th bolt. You can go around to the left.
By Keegan McCormick
From: Hixson, TN
Jul 22, 2013

Attempted going to the far left of the bees at the 4th bolt, partner was swarmed and had to bail.
By khowe
From: Knoxville, TN
Aug 4, 2013

Define swarmed? I'm wanting to give Lucy in the Sky a shot soon, but it sounds like it may not be worth the risk! Any viable solutions to this bee issue at the 4th bolt?
By adoit90
From: Atlanta, GA
Feb 13, 2014

Does anywone know if the bees are still a problem here? I'm interested, but not if there's a chance of getting swarmed.
By adoit90
From: Atlanta, GA
Mar 3, 2014

Hey Khowe, did you get a chance to check on the bees? Also, do you know what kind of anchors there are at the top of the second pitch? I saw there's cold shuts at the top of the first, but I haven't found anything about the 2nd anchors anywhere.
By khowe
From: Knoxville, TN
Mar 11, 2014

No bee activity (March 11, 2014).
By Bob Rob
May 31, 2015

The honey bee nest looks pretty huge and active as of May 30, 2015. Our leader went around to the left and placed some gear without getting stung. You could probably follow a similar route without placing any pieces. Don't fall on the fifth bolt or you will land in bee city!

Unfortunately, the rap line from the hanging belay anchor near the top seems like it will take you right past the bees. If you top out there are some eye bolts on the side of the fin. We replaced the manky cord and extended it over the top to the opposite side of the fin. We then used two ropes to rap down into the alley just to be safe on length.

But this is really a great route and worth doing. I was very impressed. We did it in one pitch plus the 10 foot run to the top out. The bees and anchor replacement made it feel a little adventurous, so be confident if you try.
By Jim Urbec
Oct 17, 2016

climbed this yesterday.

bees were definitely still there, cooler temps kept activity low but definitely not dormant or dead. move past quick and you be fine.

great two pitch climb.

bolts and anchors looked great. there is an old set of chains just below the top, clip it and continue to actual top.