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Lucy in the Sky with Potash 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: FA: Linus Platt
Page Views: 7,695
Submitted By: Wes Allen on Mar 1, 2002  with updates from George Perkins

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White Helmet, blue shirt is LSP route

  • Poop Alert! MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Fun roadside route between 30 seconds over potash and nervous in suburbia. Starts off as hands, moves to fingers, with a cool couple face moves, then back to fingers. Watch out for a couple loose flakes toward the top (someone drew a big chalk "NO" on one of them). They seem pretty solid; just don't pull out on them to hard.

    Protection 

    Mix of stoppers, small cams, and a couple hand sized cams.


    Photos of Lucy in the Sky with Potash Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Good View of the Crack
    Good View of the Crack
    Rock Climbing Photo: The boys up on Lucy in the Sky and 30 Seconds Over...
    The boys up on Lucy in the Sky and 30 Seconds Over...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jenny Schillinger high on 'Lucy In the Sky With Po...
    Jenny Schillinger high on 'Lucy In the Sky With Po...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Romano protects before sending the crux where...
    Tony Romano protects before sending the crux where...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Above the thin section. Photographer: Rich Servant...
    Above the thin section. Photographer: Rich Servant...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The start to "LSP" is behind the flagpol...
    The start to "LSP" is behind the flagpol...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Setting pro for the crux. Photographer: Rich Serva...
    Setting pro for the crux. Photographer: Rich Serva...

    Comments on Lucy in the Sky with Potash Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 24, 2017
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 5, 2003
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Fun route- different cruxes depending on body and finger size. Short people have trouble with using the arete on the right and going up left to the big sloper edge (normal crux). Big people have trouble getting fingers in down even lower. I have small fingers and long arms, but that considered, I still felt this climb was nearly a full number grade harder than some of the 5.10a's at potash.A small stopper (very small) can be placed at your waist at the crux.

    Fun and cruxy. Not like the normal desert cracks.

    5.10c. Harder if you are short. All 4 members of our party agreed.
    By Shane Zentner
    From: Colorado
    Mar 15, 2004
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Grabbing the arete is awkward but effective. I placed something small at the crux, I believe a small alien. There is a flake near the top of the route that is hollow(Pull down, not out!). Fingers to face climbing. Check out the 5.8 dihedral to the right.
    By Lynn S
    Mar 13, 2009
    rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

    00 C3 will be at your waist for the bouldery crux move. Reached up left for the edge, the higher you reach the less greasy the hold. Smear with the left and step up with the right in the corner, slam a jam in the next opening. Fun climbing.
    By Brian Barenberg
    Mar 30, 2009

    Fun route. I was there last week and a local told me they recently took the large flake at the top down with a crowbar, so don't worry about trying to be careful--it's no longer there.
    By Skyler Penrod
    Apr 24, 2009
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Fun route, great lead with good pro. There is only one small .10a sequence on the route. You have a good piece(#1 Camelot)underneath you so don't sweat it!
    By Abandoned User
    Nov 2, 2009
    rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Brian, and everyone, the death flake at the top is still there, and even if it wasn't, continue to be careful. There's a lot of loose rock near the top. Hard crux move in my opinion.
    By timothyrgriffen Griffen
    May 4, 2012
    rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Super fun route. Not sure if I could agree with the consensus of a 5.10a grade. The crux is pretty hard 5.10b-5.10c. The rest of the route is crusier though.
    By Joseph Lascurain
    From: Cincinnati
    Nov 1, 2012
    rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    The crux might not be so bad if the feet weren't polished in this section. Otherwise if feels pretty hard for 10a. I felt that there was no move even close to as hard as this crux on Flakes of Wrath which seemed much more than a slight grade easier IMO. Anyways fun route.
    By Tyson Waldron
    From: Reno, NV
    Nov 22, 2013
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Really delicate crux. I thought this line was awesome. I doubled my pro at the crux and hoped the rubber would stick!
    By Emily C Sukiennik
    From: Sedona, AZ
    May 27, 2015

    Love!!! This was my first 5.10 trad lead, and a great one at that. Small hands at the crux and some difficulty placing gear where you want to place your fingers. A great challenge.
    By Michael Dom
    From: Seattle
    Dec 22, 2015

    Mostly awkward, I didn't find any memorable moves on this guy.
    By Mackay Crabbe 1
    From: Moab, Utah
    Feb 24, 2017

    This climb got a whole lot easier this past winter. Whether somebody chipped it out or just getting climbed, fresh after a rain, there is a easy step in the crack right in the middle of the crux move. Made the climb into a 5.9 in my opinion. Still fun but way easier than it used to be!

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