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Lucy Goosy 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 170', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tyler Lunsford, Morgan Smith
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 448
Submitted By: Morgan F. Smith on Mar 20, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Lucy Goosy, 5.10+, proposed continuation on left.


This route is the start of a planned continuation of the 8 pitch classic, Supernova. The route starts in the obvious chimney and heads straight up before going around the arete to the slab on the left. A fun stemming sequence through the chimney gives way to a fun slab. More pitches will be added over the ensuing months up and to the left in the dihedral area to push the route to the next obvious ledge. The final headwall is also planned to be bolted, likely resulting in ~20 pitches once completed.

Pitch 1- 5.10a, stem up through the chimney, move out onto the slab early and continue up to the first set of anchors. 8 bolts, 28m.
Pitch 2- 5.10+, move left off the anchors to the dihedral area and continue upward. 7 bolts, 26m.

Named for the marvelous Lucy Lunsford, who graciously allowed some wedding funds to be diverted into bolting it!


From the summit of Supernova, take the small path up the left side of the canyon to the obvious wall at the back of the canyon. Belay from out of the chimney.


Well protected with 1/2inch SS bolts & SS rap rings. Bolted in 2016.

Photos of Lucy Goosy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: topo
Rock Climbing Photo: putting up the anchors
putting up the anchors
Rock Climbing Photo: Morgan Smith on the lower chimney sequence.
Morgan Smith on the lower chimney sequence.

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By Josiah Cooper
From: Lenexa, KS
Dec 13, 2016

So far this is the only bolted line at the top of Super Nova. Both pitches can be linked with a 70m rope and that's a good thing as the belayer is more protected from any rockfall on the 2nd pitch. Bring an alpine draw or two if you plan to link the pitches, as it will help to reduce your rope drag. There is still loose rock on both pitches, although it has been mostly cleaned. Fun chimney action up the first pitch and then fun face stuff on the second, this line was bolted really well, guys! Pysched to have claimed the second ascent, and even more excited to see what this project becomes!!

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