REI Community
Gangsta' Ledge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Country Mile T 
Father Roy T 
Giants of Science S 
Lucky Town S 
Rattlesnake Speedway S 
Takeda Route T,S 
Teardrops on the City S 
Tiny Giant S 
Unsorted Routes:

Lucky Town 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Colby Wayment
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 63
Submitted By: Colby Wayment on Jul 16, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Fun on the quartzite....

Description 

This good route is the mirror image of Teardrops. It has a similar airy feel. From Gangsta Ledge, climb up and right starting on Father Roy, hand-traversing at the pod, and finishing the line of bolts up the right arete.

I did not want to compromise Father Roy, so you will probably want to bring a couple pieces of gear (#1 and 2 Camalot) or a stick-clip. The traverse will get the blood flowing for the bouldery crux that involves big pull to a crimp at the second bolt. Keep it together for a few more moves and finish up the easy, kind of runout slab to the anchors.

Protection 

#1 and/or #2 Camalot (doesn't hurt to have both) for the Father Roy portion of the route. Then 3 protection bolts + two bolts for anchors.


Comments on Lucky Town Add Comment
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By Colby Wayment
From: Ogden, UT
Jul 16, 2011

Every bit as good as the other two, in my obviously biased opinion.
By eric zschiesche
Jul 17, 2011

CW,..obviously, as with many subjective assessments there can be tinges of bias, in this case, another subjective nod for the above comparison.

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