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Starr Mountain
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Big Men, Small Airplanes T 
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Lucky Strikes 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Howie Cox, Bob Ordner - 1981
Page Views: 1,766
Submitted By: saxfiend on Dec 2, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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A good stance gives Denmark an opportunity to cons...

Description 

Like the DCA says, this is one of the best routes at Starr Mountain. The roof near the end is exposed but nicely protected.

Starting on a short arete, sometimes tenuous moves lead to a short roof with nice horizontals. Pull the roof and continue to the top, enjoying the spectacular view of the Hiwassee River.

Location 

Starts 10' right of Vulcans Do Not Bluff, across from the Pleasing to the Touch face.

Protection 

Small to medium nuts, cams. Gear anchor at the top.


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Rock Climbing Photo: Lucky Strikes
BETA PHOTO: Lucky Strikes

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By david Adkins
Nov 11, 2008

PG-13 in my book; the protection before the crux it not all that good.
By Gregg Albritton
Jun 10, 2015

I first climbed Lucky in 1992, and it is one of my favorite 5.9's in SE Tennessee and have climbed it many times.

If you are climbing it on lead be sure to set gear from the rocking-chair just before you slide out and around the arete because a fall here could be nasty. Also, you can pull the ceiling by working up to it and reaching over and seting a 0.75 Camalot to the right in a horizontal with a 4' sling and protect the pull. Once up you can set a 1 or 2 in the horizontal and then catch another set before you top out.

Again I rate it as 5.9 only - not 5.9+.
By paul.adams.3
From: Knoxville, TN
Feb 19, 2017

Not pg13 in my book. A 4 slots in well at the bulge of the lower crux. After that that, you can pretty much sew it up
By Manderson198
May 15, 2017

Bolted anchors are now installed at the top of this climb. These might be the only set of anchors at this crag (aside from the 2 or 3 sport routes).

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