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Lucky Strike 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R [details]
FA: Chris Alber, Rick Leitner, 1998
Page Views: 210
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 10, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Glen on the crux bulge.

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  • Description 

    5.11c (R=Rolofson). Like many routes on the wall, the grading may be soft or simply not the same for everyone. LS is the furthest left of the routes on the Bowling Alley proper and just right of the Mineshaft. Run up through some funky blocks for about 5.10 and then surmount the bulge on sloper moves. It has solid rock, but this is a bit weird for my taste.

    Protection 

    A dozen draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. A 60 meter rope just gets you down.


    Photos of Lucky Strike Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: 1st roof.
    1st roof.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The crux bulge.
    The crux bulge.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Start of route.
    Start of route.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mark below the easy roof around the 2nd-3rd bolt.
    Mark below the easy roof around the 2nd-3rd bolt.

    Comments on Lucky Strike Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    Mar 12, 2003

    Isn't this the furthest left route?
    By tobias Nitschke
    From: CO
    Jun 8, 2003

    Funky route-- more reminiscent of Clear Creek lines than what I know of Boulder Canyon. The crux is traversing right into a bouldery layback problem about 60 feet up. I cruised right by the second bolt in this section in my desire to get on solid ground, then had a helluva time reaching behind my right leg to clip the sucker. That section and just above are quite slopey. A fun route; worth doing for variety's sake.
    By Mark Roth
    From: Boulder
    May 20, 2014

    Don't know why this would have an R rating? Very well protected near any of the harder moves....
    By Julius Beres
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 15, 2015
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

    I wouldn't give it an R rating, but a couple of the bolts are pretty badly placed if you are short (there is no reason they couldn't be an inch lower, and their height makes you do a move prior to clipping way above the last bolt...). However, the crux is well-protected, and most of the climb is mellow.
    By Mark Rolofson
    Aug 11, 2017
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    I would recommend a 70 meter rope for this route. A 60 meter rope may be three to five feet short. If you are using a 60 meter rope, make sure there is a knot tied in the end.

    The route has a hard crux & an interesting roof at 3rd bolt but is otherwise a lot of moderate climbing with ledges. Not a route I tend to repeat.

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