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Lucky Streak 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: D. Mabe, Aug 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,330
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Jun 11, 2012

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Helen setting up for the tricky clip.


Lucky Streak features steep face climbing with a couple of bulges interspersed. The crux is sharp and cryptic giving a surprising pump. Anchors are set back on a nice ledge.


Located around the corner from the Twist a Dream route in a nice grassy clearing.


8 bolts, 2 bolt fixed biner anchor.

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By Tradiban
Jul 26, 2012

I thought this was pretty awesome, maybe four stars for the area?!! One hollow crimp at the crux but if it blows there's another crimp right next to it albeit not as good.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 26, 2012

last weekend i noticed that the lower off biners are missing from the chains. Next time i am up there, i will try to bring a couple unless someone beats me to it. thanks!

EDIT: freshies have been added to the anchors!

EDIT: ... and then disappeared, again.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 14, 2015

Anchor biners not there again as of yesterday. Apparently most folks cant handle them so I didn't replace them. I think I have personally added at least 8 biners to this particular anchor. It's almost humorous at this point. However I will say that the chain will eventually wear thin if repeatedly lowered/rapped through, so either add some biners or top out and walk off. This will necessitate some trad gear for short pitch to the top, gardening tools, and shoes for the descent.
By JacobD
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 15, 2015

It's crazy how many leaver biners have disappeared. Do folks think it is an education issue, or people just taking them that know better but want free gear?
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 15, 2015

I noticed this on many routes when at the hobo jungle recently. Unfortunately I think it's destined to keep happening at an area that is friendly to beginners. How about zip ties or bailing wire attaching the biners to the chain/quicklinks?
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 15, 2015

Since when is 5.11 a beginner grade? ;)
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 18, 2015

Darren get with the times ;)
please be advised: 5.15 = advanced, 5.14 = moderate, 5.13 and below is beginner
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Sep 19, 2015

It's a bigger initial investment, but it's pretty hard to argue against the steel Climb Tec carabiners with pin. Maybe a GNAR fundraiser?

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