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Lucky Stars 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Kevin Worrall, et all
Page Views: 392
Submitted By: SCherry on Feb 22, 2011

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This route's claim to fame is the excellent middle pitch that climbs featured, blocky rock on the right side of the steep "Right Wall". The last pitch provides the only 5.10 "escape" from the large ledge system of orange rock (about 150" feet from the base of the wall), that many of these climbs intersect.

Pitch 1: 10c. Starting just left of the obvious feature of the "White Arete" at the farthest right set of 4 anchors at the base of the "Right Wall". Follow the right line of bolts up a slab of white and orange rock (the left line of bolts from this belay is the first pitch of "Up Stream" and "Fly Away Roof"). Before the wall turns vertical move left across the slab to a set of anchors (painted white) just below a large bush, and an obvious right trending seam under a small roof (shared with the 1st belay for "Fly Away Roof" this seam feature is the 2nd pitch of Fly Away). 60 feet.

Pitch 2: 11c. Step right from the belay to a small trough like feature. The first bolt is obvious on a bulging arete marking the beginning of the right side of the trough. Solve the first of 3 cruxes here in this feature (hint: you can chimney if you are short) and establish at a rest on a small ledge at the top of the trough. From here layback right along a slopey rail feature underneath a large overhang (Hint: there is a hidden 'thank god jug' at its right end). Continue up steeper rock out the right side of the overhang on amazing blocky jugs to establish on another rest ledge at the base of the final crux, on a bulging orange panel of rock. Solve this perplexing series of moves with hidden holds (I climbed left and back right), moving right as the wall bulges again to anchors in a small alcove on the right side of a large detached block that rests on the ledge (the anchors on the left of the block are for "Fly Away Roof"). 100 feet.

Pitch 3. 10c/d (incorrectly written as 11d in the ACSD Topo). "The Escape Traverse Pitch". This last pitch does not look super appealing from the belay, as it traverses through some bushes and ledges eventually gaining an arete feature and slab of white rock that allows one to escape out the right side of the large roof feature capping this part of the wall. Its actually an enjoyable pitch that allows you a 5.10 bypass and some really cool climbing to boot. Looking up this white section of rock is very obvious as the only path through the steeper orange rock to the right and left.

From the belay step up onto the "Orange Grip Tape" rock and clip the first bolt on the route "Fly Away Roof" then start the traverse right by climbing through or below (your choice) some grasses reaching a rest ledge (in a corner) at the 2nd bolt. Continue traversing right for 2 more bolts, then move up onto a large ledge system. At this point the right terminus of the orange roof system is above you. Move to the far right end of this ledge (exercising caution as its unprotected, and sometimes muddy) to an obvious bolt in the white rock. Reach to make the first clip on the white slab, then climb out to the edge of the arete (cool exposure), and up on nice thoughtful crux moves passing 2 more bolts to a belay just below the grass at the top of the wall. 90 feet total (though you don't actually gain that much vertical ground).


Just left of the obvious feature of the "White Arete". Locate the farthest right set of 4 anchors atop the grassy ledges at the base of the "Right Wall". This is a common starting point for the routes "Up Stream", "Fly Away Roof" and "Lucky Stars"


15 quick draws.

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