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Lucky Old Sun Direct 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2015
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall, winter, spring
Page Views: 325
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Feb 1, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: LOS Direct photo topo

Description 

LOS Direct is a fantastic pitch for the grade, and a bit easier than the original line.

Shares the first three bolts of The Scythe, then break out right following hard to see holds, and pumpy 5.10 climbing up a sweeping bronze swath of stone.

At the end of the bronze shields section is an semi chossy alcove feature. Stem your way up to a distinct notch at the top of the alcove.

At the notch roof, you will come across a bolt with a chain just over the lip. Clip the chain with a draw, and mantle onto some rather big jugs using the great arête to the left 5.10-. Gingerly work up the slab and left arête with rad holds and two more bolts to a two bolt anchor over the top of a giant runnel.

Location 

Direct finish of Lucky Old Sun.

Protection 

11 bolts
2 bolt anchor with 3/8" quick links
13 runners, long draws, standard draws will help your rope flow.


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