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Lucky Old Sun Direct
5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.6 from 20 votes
Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2015 |
Page Views: | 1,353 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | JJ Schlick on Feb 1, 2015 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
LOS Direct is a fantastic pitch for the grade, and a bit easier than the original line.
Shares the first three bolts of The Scythe, then break out right following hard to see holds and pumpy 5.10 climbing up a sweeping bronze swath of stone.
At the end of the bronze shields section is an semi chossy alcove feature. Stem your way up to a distinct notch at the top of the alcove.
At the notch roof, you will come across a bolt with a chain just over the lip. Clip the chain with a draw, and mantle onto some rather big jugs using the great arête to the left 5.10-. Gingerly work up the slab and left arête with rad holds and two more bolts to a two bolt anchor over the top of a giant runnel.
Shares the first three bolts of The Scythe, then break out right following hard to see holds and pumpy 5.10 climbing up a sweeping bronze swath of stone.
At the end of the bronze shields section is an semi chossy alcove feature. Stem your way up to a distinct notch at the top of the alcove.
At the notch roof, you will come across a bolt with a chain just over the lip. Clip the chain with a draw, and mantle onto some rather big jugs using the great arête to the left 5.10-. Gingerly work up the slab and left arête with rad holds and two more bolts to a two bolt anchor over the top of a giant runnel.
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