REI Community
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Shadow Sickness T 
Castles Made of Sand S 
Chains of Love T,S 
East Face/Fiddle Head T 
Fertile Crescent. T 
Irish Spring T,S 
Leprechaun Promenade S,TR 
Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint T 
Men Only T 
Surfing Samarsa T 
Unknown Dihedral T 

Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Griffith/Guerin, 1981
Page Views: 1,735
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Oct 28, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Wedging in a brass micro to protect the thin crux ...

  • Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Ever see the Wild Country ad in late '80s Rock and Ice with Charlie Fowler climbing a cool looking face somewhere in the Flatirons? This is that route, and I had always wanted to do it since I first saw the pic...I feel that this is one of the best Flatirons routes of its grade.

    Short but sweet! Climb up to the bolt (added after 1st ascent) and move up and left to these jigsaw flakes and place a wire or two. Stand up and place another wire in a sort of dubious slot out left. Make crux moves diagonally out right to another angling crack, meander your way up and right to the ledge and belay.

    Rap off the slings threaded through the jug handle or climb the "2nd pitch" of dirty, lichenous rock.


    Small/medium wires, small cams, 1 bolt.

    Photos of Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Callum scrambles it like an egg.
    Callum scrambles it like an egg.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb leads up the deceptively steep and thin ...
    Tony Bubb leads up the deceptively steep and thin ...

    Comments on Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Jason Haas
    Sep 1, 2008

    Matt Samet and I replaced the single button-head bolt down low today with a much beefier ASCA stainless bolt. Please support the ASCA if you don't already.

    Kudos to Matt who had to finish drilling the last inch by hand when the battery went dead in the drill, all while racing the oncoming darkness.

    Also, I think this route would benefit from a bolted anchor to be shared with Leprechaun instead of the slung boulder on the ledge. Just my two cents on the matter.
    By Aaron Martinuzzi
    Sep 25, 2009

    This is a really fun climb. Well worth getting on if you're a confident face climber at the grade. I felt the crux moves were pretty thin, and, in my case, protected only by a #3 BD brass that I got about 12 or 13 feet above at one point. Very exciting.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About