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Birthday Brushings 5.7+ G / 5.6 PG-13 T 
Inspectrum T 
Lucky Charms & Lucky Charms Direct T 
Pillars of Dickulese T 
Watermelon, The T 
What's Up Yankee?  T 
Wit's End "Without" (the branch) T 

Lucky Charms & Lucky Charms Direct 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Ed Webster & Kathryn Rogers Sept 1981
Page Views: 57
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Nov 1, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: On P1 of Lucky Charms. The 2nd piece is the neat h...

Description 

APPROACH: Follow directions towards Road to Lhasa, but cut across the woods to a descending ramp (passing start of What's Up Yankee's "ugly" corner) and make a tricky 4-5 ft descent down a slab, then hike up and left 20-25 ft gaining the ledge at the base of Birthday Brushings (and 25-30 ft left, the start of Lucky Charms) [See Topo of base area of this part of the cliff posted to Lucky Charms]

START- On a ledge about 40 feet left of the black corner of "What's Up Yankee?", or about 50-60 feet right of, and about 30 ft higher than, the start of "Pillars of Dickulese". (See photo, and/or Topo, of the LEFT Side Area.)

DESCRIPTION: Very nice, varied climbing. The first 30-40 ft of this section of the cliff is much like that of the Bonsai-Sub-Slab, in that it is steep enough to not be "just friction slab". The "Direct" variation on P1 has moves similar to those of Cruise Control & Perfect Wave.

P1- START at the left end of the "Lucky Charms Ledge", by a clump of trees. In 2014 there was a 12ft maple about 15-20 ft up, and a piton sticking out about 30-35 ft up.(Photo) Climb up to the piton (Small-to-Med. cam backs up) then up to a higher horizontal crack. Move up and right (Var#1) to the obvious left-facing flake for protection, then diagonal back left to a gear belay in an often-wet pocket 6 ft below the small pine tree. 80-90 ft The F.A. party rated this pitch 5.7R, but I would give it 5.5-5.6 PG. Don't miss the really neat wire nut placement in the "hole" above the tree. (photo)

Variation#1 "Lucky Charms Direct"- Above the piton, climb directly up the slab, past 2 bolts, to the belay. Maybe 5.7 / 5.7+ right of the bolts [left-hand clips], slightly harder left of the bolts.

P2 - (As per the FA) Step left from the belay [Var#2] and climb up to the trees. This is extremely close to the "Pillars" 2nd pitch, if not the same. "Pillars" has one protection bolt on its P2.

Variation#2 "Direct continuation" - Move right from the belay 6-8ft (solution pocket on the left takes a Tri-Cam, as does another on the right a bit higher**) and then straight up (pin driven down into a poor flake about 1/2 way up) to the trees. Exit moves brushed in 2014. 120-130 ft 5.3-5.4 R/X May be wet.
NOTE:** From here it is also possible to move right 20-25 ft to reach the bolted belay at the end of P1 of Birthday Brushings. About 5.3-5.4 R

Descent - Rap "Pillars" from the large pine tree with TWO 2-rope raps, or two raps with a single rope 70 Meter (Required!) down "Birthday Brushings" (about 50 ft climber's-right of the large pine of "Pillars".

Protection 

Normal rack, small wire for the "hole". [See photo of "Neat hole..."] TriCams for P2 Variation


Photos of Lucky Charms & Lucky Charms Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lucky Charms P2 Topo
BETA PHOTO: Lucky Charms P2 Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: RW Leading Lucky Charms Direct
RW Leading Lucky Charms Direct
Rock Climbing Photo: RW starts Lucky Charms
BETA PHOTO: RW starts Lucky Charms
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the dirt ledge. Furthest climber is a...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the dirt ledge. Furthest climber is a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lucky Charms, P1 Topo
BETA PHOTO: Lucky Charms, P1 Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Detail of Route Photo in area of Lucky Charms
BETA PHOTO: Detail of Route Photo in area of Lucky Charms
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo of STARTS hidden by trees in Photo of LEFT SI...
BETA PHOTO: Topo of STARTS hidden by trees in Photo of LEFT SI...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lucky Charms Direct: RW follows P1
BETA PHOTO: Lucky Charms Direct: RW follows P1
Rock Climbing Photo: Pointed Boulder & Lucky Charms START
BETA PHOTO: Pointed Boulder & Lucky Charms START
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking UP at the START of Lucky Charms from the &...
BETA PHOTO: Looking UP at the START of Lucky Charms from the &...
Rock Climbing Photo: Neat hole for a small wire. Just above the tree.
BETA PHOTO: Neat hole for a small wire. Just above the tree.

Comments on Lucky Charms & Lucky Charms Direct Add Comment
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By John Halupowski
From: Intervale, N.H.
Nov 3, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Nice moves on coarse textured rock. Don't miss the small hole down low that takes a wire. You'll probably put your finger in it.

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