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Machete Ridge
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L to R R to L Alpha
Corona S 
Cuidado! S 
Dos Equis S 
Los Banditos T 
Lucky 13 -to- GP Headwall -to- Rock Around the Clock S 
Machete Direct  T,S 
Old Original T 
Robots of Dawn S 
Son of Dawn Wall T,S 
Twinkle Toes Traverse T 
Unsorted Routes:

Lucky 13 -to- GP Headwall -to- Rock Around the Clock 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A0

   
Type:  Sport, Aid, 6 pitches, 700', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A0 [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 215
Submitted By: Tony L on Jan 31, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Start of Lucky 13. Note the bolt 6' off the gr...

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Beta 

This is the link up of Lucky 13 to George and Phyllis' Headwall to Rock Around the Clock. This link up provides 6 or 7 pitches of 5.8-5.10a/b climbing with a short bolt ladder in the middle. The bolt ladder is a bit reachy - recommend using aiders rather than just pulling on draws. The route is quite similar in character to Machete Direct.

P1 (Lucky 13): 5.10a bolt ladder. 13 densely spaced bolts. Quality rock.
P2: Climb around the Bad Man Mezzanine. Four bolts. 5.4 OK rock. Belay at the pine tree.
P3: GP Headwall. 5.10 a/b start leads to easier 5.7. Cut right and continue up to Rock Around the Clock. Alternatively climb to the top of the GP Headwall and move belay over to Rock Around the Clock.
P4: Climb the 5.9/A0 bolt ladder. Bolts to a 5.9 move to more bolts lead to an intermediate anchor.
P5: 5.8 to 3rd class section. (Can be split into two pitches).
P6: 5.5 to top of ridge. Small cams pro the 5.5 section.

There are numerous variations: Bill's Bad Bolts and Los Banditos are alternative finishes (vs. Rock Around the Clock). Alias Bandits Bench is an alternate start. Lucky 13 is obnoxiously over-bolted (the bolt ladder extends over 5.7 terrain + sawn tree limbs).

Listing this as a complete route since the eclectic mix of pitches that were done at different times is irrelevant. The provides a comprehensive bottom-to-top route for someone browsing Pinnacles West.

All bolts are in excellent condition. All anchors are bolts and have chains. Requires two ropes to rap. Alternative descent from top of the ridge is possible. You cannot rap 3 with a 70m rope.

Where do I start?! 

Middle of Machete Ridge. Start is the obvious bolt ladder of Lucky 13.

Protectionz 

Bolts for first 5 pitches. The final 5.5 pitch can be protected with small cams (or just run it out).


Comments on Lucky 13 -to- GP Headwall -to- Rock Around the Clock Add Comment
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By Chris Bersbach
From: Arroyo Grande, CA
Apr 16, 2017

This is good tour up the face of Machete Ridge. Faster and easier than Machete Direct. We took the left route around the Badman Mezzanine, rather than the right, for pitch 3 (traversing left on bolts, then right up the 4th class chimney. Descended by following the ridge to the rap anchors at the top of (I think) Son of Dawn, and rapelling off the back of the ridge, then walked down from near the start of OId Original.

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