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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Lynn Willis, Matt Paden, May 2016
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 389
Submitted By: Matt Paden on Jul 18, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Ryan B. on the huge horizontals of Luciferin.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Luciferin is a great warm-up with excellent protection. Start on sloping rails and climb 10 ft. into the shallow corner below the 2-3 ft. cap roof. Pull onto the face using the huge horizontals, trend up and Right (5.9), then around blunt arete. Climb down-sloping features on slabby terrain to gain the vertical seam, then head up and Left towards obvious horn. Stay to the right side of horn and climb ever-easing terrain to the Fixe ring anchors. 60M rope lowers you to the ground.

5.10 variation: Start about 4 feet left of Luciferin near an obvious thin, vertical seam. Climb up to the right-most jugs used on Jug Route and then keep going straight up until at the horizontal below the triangular-shaped, slightly overhanging face. Get gear (your last until the crux is over), then power through crimps and shallow pockets on the face and left corner until you get the goods up top. Step up to easy terrain and then traverse right into Luciferin.

The route name comes from the first ascent party having a bioluminescent experience on the way back to the trailhead, walking into a firefly hatching and a glowworm by the trail. Luciferin is the light-emitting compound found in organisms that generate bioluminescence.


Start begins 13 ft. Right of Jug Route and 25 ft. left of Ladies In Waiting. There is a small rock stack in the starting foot alcove to mark the route.


Bring a full rack, doubles or triples of #1-3 Camalots. Can be done with doubles with ample protection.

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By BruceBurgessNC Burgess
Jul 25, 2016

Nice find Lynn & Matt! This is nice addition to the area and will improve with more traffic.
By Joe Virtanen
From: Asheville, NC
Jun 5, 2017

Very enjoyable! I like the variety, particularly the fun section through the seam up high.

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