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Placche del Lago aka Seeplatten
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Lucia e Marcello S 

Lucia e Marcello 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Bernhard Falett 1992
Season: dry late spring/summer/fall
Page Views: 65
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Apr 28, 2016

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Carol coming up p4 of Lucia e Marcello

Description 

A good route on great rock.

5 pitch slab route.

1) 60 feet at 4b (with 5a option to the left protected with a couple of bolts). 3 or so bolts to two bolt anchor.

2) 70 feet at 4b. Couple of bolts and maybe a fixed pin to fixed anchor. Climb up a groove with a flake to the left and shallow corner to the right.

3) 80 feet at 4a. Four or so bolts. Up and left at last bolt to fixed anchor which is shared with the 3rd pitch of the route to the left: Wasserinfonie (5a+).

4) 100 feet rally up at 3c. A couple of bolts to fixed anchor. Low angle slab with shallow, thin curving cracks full of grass. Shallow groove/crack up then jog left to anchor on slab.

5) 180 feet to top of route at 3b. Up inverted "V" shaped slot on low angle rock, step over easy roof, up slabs and grooves. Fixed anchor right of large block (and 15m below water pipe).

Route climbs fast (under two hours at a slower pace). Good for a short day or to enjoy the lakeside scenery.

Location 

Route is located just right of the middle of the slab at/through a small krumholz island.

Take your gear with to avoid return to base. Or, if you rappel in, leave the extras at the top.

Protection 

7 quickdraws and/or slings. A light rack of a few medium sized cams could be used.


Photos of Lucia e Marcello Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Carol takes us home on Lucia e Marcello.  Pitch 5
Carol takes us home on Lucia e Marcello. Pitch 5
Rock Climbing Photo: Coming up the 3rd pitch of Lucia e Marcello
Coming up the 3rd pitch of Lucia e Marcello

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