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Lucertola 6c 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 12 pitches, 1500', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: H Müller, U Falett
Page Views: 57
Submitted By: Colin Winter on Jul 25, 2012

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Brilliant technical face climbing in the first of ...


Another great, long sport route ascending the entirety of the wall. All pitches of the route range between 5c and 6c, with the majority around 6a/6a+. With its two 6c pitches, Lucertola is a touch more difficult that the others on this wall.

The first three pitches, up the lower slab, are shared with another long route, Maggialore. The 6b+ intro pitch is a one sequence wonder, pulling through a large bulge and onto a fairly blank slab... a tough one to decipher and execute without much of any warmup. If this doesn't appeal, it is possible to skip the lower section entirely by scrambling around it on the left, or do a different route up the slab just to the right, and switch into Lucertola at the transition between lower slab and headwall.

The first two pitches of the headwall are also shared with Maggialore. Lucertola then breaks hard left, traversing for a full pitch just over a roof - fairly merciful and not too airy. The first crux 6c pitch follows, with brilliant technical climbing on funky, striped stone. The rest of the headwall is very pleasant - steep but with a decent enough array of features. Among them is the second crux 6c pitch, which follows a nice crack line up to and through a slightly overhanging section with an interesting move to gain the belay platform on the right.


Facing the wall, Lucertola takes off at the far left of the lower slab, underneath a prominent bulge.

Descent is by abseil down the headwall, and by foot from the base of the headwall (above the slab).


Bolted (impeccably)

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