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Luca and the Fishes 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A2+ X

Type:  Trad, Aid, 9 pitches, 1000', Grade VI
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A2+ X [details]
Page Views: 1,223
Submitted By: Orphaned on May 23, 2007

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  • note, as an important part of the adventure the pitches will be described briefly. The first 4 pitches have seen a "no beta" second, thus parties should be comfortable on Babo aid before attempting.

pitches 1-3 lead through chopped arch roof and to the left corner of large roof section ("Dreams" skirts to right of this feature). pitches 4-5 lead to a pendulum into the Fellowship's crux free pitch (the 5.9R section of Luca). FA party refused to drill on Steiger's "tour de force" and instead the leader ended they pitch by tying off to a bush at his feet while the second jumared the leaders waist loop. The following pitch (5.8X) leads into a 5.10 corner tree pitch below the "bowl" on the Spring route and joins for the balance of the wall.

hole count p1 = 6, p2 = 4, p3 = 2, p4 = 2, p5 = 0, p6 = 0 total = 14


right of the bivy area (which is right of spring proper) is a "chopped out arch". Climbing begins on left side and climbs through right side of roof. An intermediate belay was drilled on the 2nd partial ascent.


standard desert rack, heads and circles, all hooks, pins to 2" including horizontal Rurps. Ball nuts helpful.

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