|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 35'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b PG13 [details]|
|Submitted By:||Luc Ried on Sep 25, 2015|
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By aubrey Joe
Oct 5, 2015
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
This route is probably much harder for shorter people. Being tall, I found it to be easier than 13a, requiring no dynamic moves (match after the undercling, then right hand bumps to an eventual jug, the crux being: keeping your feet from swinging out by toeing into the undercling). I'm really bad at rating, but I was thinking a really hard 11. 11d? But again, that crux move could be far more difficult for shorter people. I've had plenty of my own routes downgraded, so maybe I'm compensating and it's really a 12, who knows. Also, I skipped a difficult clip, the second bolt on the roof. There are plenty of bolts without that one. Plus the anchors are now a more appropriate length.
Also, nice work on the FA, Luc, no matter the grade.
By Luc Ried
From: Batesville, AR
Oct 5, 2015
|I'd be interested to see the beta you used, I'll adjust the grade to a more appropriate rating. I did a repeat the other day and thought it felt easier with some different feet that I'd used on the FA, I also skipped the hard clip on my repeat. I still feel its solid 5.12, at least for those of us who have to use the dynamic beta that I have to use. I felt it harder than wet dreams, at least for me. We will see where the grade sits|