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Luc Skywalker 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b PG13 [details]
FA: Luc Ried
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 445
Submitted By: Luc Ried on Sep 25, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Trying to set up the odd foot beta to keep tension...


Start off of a rock to avoid getting mud on your climbing shoes. Campus through the first few moves until you can get your feet on, then continue onto the ledge. This ledge is a good resting place before you embark on the serious end of the climb. Clip the draw on the roof before you leave the ledge. From a huge flake bust out a dynamic reach to a slopey ledge to begin the crux. With some interesting foot beta continue through slopers until you reach the a good resting hold at about 25 feet. From here, the climbing is easier, but you'll be dealing with the pump from the moves below.
Note: The crux is proving to be height dependent


About 10 feet right of Spread Your Eagle.


Fixed draws

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Rock Climbing Photo: The dynamic reach that starts the crux
The dynamic reach that starts the crux

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By aubrey Joe
Oct 5, 2015
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

This route is probably much harder for shorter people. Being tall, I found it to be easier than 13a, requiring no dynamic moves (match after the undercling, then right hand bumps to an eventual jug, the crux being: keeping your feet from swinging out by toeing into the undercling). I'm really bad at rating, but I was thinking a really hard 11. 11d? But again, that crux move could be far more difficult for shorter people. I've had plenty of my own routes downgraded, so maybe I'm compensating and it's really a 12, who knows. Also, I skipped a difficult clip, the second bolt on the roof. There are plenty of bolts without that one. Plus the anchors are now a more appropriate length.

Also, nice work on the FA, Luc, no matter the grade.
By Luc Ried
From: Batesville, AR
Oct 5, 2015

I'd be interested to see the beta you used, I'll adjust the grade to a more appropriate rating. I did a repeat the other day and thought it felt easier with some different feet that I'd used on the FA, I also skipped the hard clip on my repeat. I still feel its solid 5.12, at least for those of us who have to use the dynamic beta that I have to use. I felt it harder than wet dreams, at least for me. We will see where the grade sits

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