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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Chris Smith, 1994
Page Views: 3,930
Submitted By: Ladd on Apr 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Jaclyn resting post crux in the nice stem


Cool moves and Technical moves on a face make this climb very interesting. Finding and taking rests will make his climb easier...
Some of the upper moves can be spicy on a fall day when the sun comes out and your hands start getting mighty sweaty on the dark-colored hot final flake moves.

The crux of this route will hit you when you try to get off the ledge mid-way up, Hint: it involves an exciting deadpoint to a three finger pocket/crimp. It might seem like the lower bolt on the ledge is kinda silly but keep it clipped it really keeps the rope out of your way for the crux.

Unlike most of this cliff, this route rarely has draws in place. Too bad that it is wet most of the year. Very worthwhile when dry. Warm-up your hips and calves for this one!


Black streak in middle of Waimea. Very open right facing corner. Just left of Silver Surfer(5.12a) and Flying Hawaiian(5.11b)


7 Bolts to anchors.

Photos of Luau Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ladd Raine all setup for the crux move.
Ladd Raine all setup for the crux move.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay Knower "the administrator" making th...
Jay Knower "the administrator" making th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ladd Raine trying to chalk and rest before the cru...
Ladd Raine trying to chalk and rest before the cru...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sam Todzia super excted to be in the sweet stem.
Sam Todzia super excted to be in the sweet stem.

Comments on Luau Add Comment
Show which comments
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
May 9, 2007

I just climbed Luau for the first time yesterday and loved it... it could be really hard if you dont use the right beta but once i figured it out it felt almost easy... my kind of route...
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 27, 2007

keep at it ladd... i seem to remember some interesting foot beta i used for the last move... its still a throw but it sets you up well... good luck...
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Aug 12, 2010

Is this route pretty much just the moves after the second bolt up until the stem? Don't get me wrong, I don't mean to devalue them... but is the rest of the route 12a? or does it kind of drop off?
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 12, 2010

The crux is down low for most but shorter climbers have trouble with the last move which many smaller folks dyno through...
i might call the bulk of the route 5.11 with those 2 harder moves thrown in...
By S. Neoh
Aug 12, 2010

I mostly agree with Lee.
When I TR'ed and led the route in '95 and '96 respectively, it had its original start intact (since fallen off) and was rated 11d. What has not changed, or at least that I am unaware of it, is the way for a short climber like me to do the last few moves statically. Some technical footwork is required but I would say the exit moves are no harder than 10d/11a even for shorties.
I hope to re-do my lead of this route now that it is a bit harder than BITD. Definitely a cool weather route, however.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 13, 2010

i think the reason ive see shortys dyno is cause they are tired by that point but i didnt mean to imply it was a manditory jump... foot work will always prevail :)
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jan 28, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The roof crux had me climbing up and down to the ledge many times before dialing into that all out move. There was no chalk on any of the the climb. For the first time I felt like I was really onsighting a sport route. Super psyched. Cerebral upper section.
By cashmab
Aug 14, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This route was totally in style for me, and I think .12a is a fair grade. I didn't find the "crux" all that....well....cruxy. I found almost everything above the "crux" fairly sustained and taxing, in a balancy technical sort of way. A lot of tick-tacking your way up delicate feet and small half pad crimps with not a lot of great rest opportunities. The finish baffled me until I realized that you just have to throw to the top from a layback with shitty feet. Maybe it was the hot day and being in the sun, but I had to work for this one. I've climbed easier .12a's, even in considering the fact that this route totally plays to my wheelhouse. Really fun overall.

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