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Routes in 5. Romance Novels
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Going Steady TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hidden Target, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Middlemarch TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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New York to Dallas 33 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Night Smoke T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Pride and Prejudice TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Vanity Fair TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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When Two Paths Meet TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | TR, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | TR Karel Hrbacek + Ken Roberts |
| Page Views: | 611 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Dec 1, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Interesting moves in a variety of rock situations. But the crux move is significantly harder than the rest.
Up the corner/crack to a big ledge. Walk left-ward across the ledge to center-right of a wide face. Up this about ten feet, then step right (crux) to a substantial left-facing corner. Up that to the top.
. . ?? (possible future variation ? . From the big ledge, aim for the big protruding block in the right wall of the substantial left-facing corner: but that big block might be loose, so need to check it from above carefully first -- with nobody anywhere below). ??
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Up the corner/crack to a big ledge. Walk left-ward across the ledge to center-right of a wide face. Up this about ten feet, then step right (crux) to a substantial left-facing corner. Up that to the top.
. . ?? (possible future variation ? . From the big ledge, aim for the big protruding block in the right wall of the substantial left-facing corner: but that big block might be loose, so need to check it from above carefully first -- with nobody anywhere below). ??
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Location
About twenty feet up steep dirt slope along left side of this Romantic Novels rock, under a left-facing corner/crack.
- - > See on this Photo
- - > See on this Photo
Protection
For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this Romance Novels sector .
Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
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