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LP Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: TYeary, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Juan Urrego on Nov 1, 2012  with updates from Jean Spencer
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BETA PHOTO: Looking down the first pitch of LP at the RR track...

Description 

It`s the longest route in Suesca, 4 pitches, all trad! it will take most of the day to climb it so be prepare!

L.P. is located at one of the farthest crags on the train tracks. There are no rap rings, so you must walk off the top.

P1-Start up a left facing dihedral in a 5.8 crack, and build your first belay just under the giant roof on a big ledge with loose rock.

P2- From there, traverse right to gain a crack over the roof and continue up.

P3- Start by shimmying off a diving board-like feature and make a bouldery move to get off the ledge. A #4 Cam works well here. Build a belay at a ledge with a tree.

P4- Classic Suesca, a little runout, but super easy climbing to the top. Follow the obvious left facing corner.

Getting There 

Is in the last climbing sector in the cliff heading north.

Climbing Season

For the South America area.

Weather station 32.8 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in LP

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for LP:
LP (details)   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 450'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in LP

Featured Route For LP

LP 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13  South America : Colombia : ... : LP
Very interesting climb with diverse charactheristics, many crack sizes, corners, roofs, traverses.Definetly the most represantative trad climb of the crag.Usually done in 4 or 5 pitches, it can be climbed in 2 pitches with a 70 meter rope, long slings and some strategy.Route finding can be tricky check with locals....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Comments on LP Add Comment
Show which comments
By Gunkswest
Dec 27, 2016
LP is a must-do route that is reminiscent of climbing at the Gunks in New York. The route wanders through intimidating terrain at a surprisingly moderate grade.

The crux corner is as difficult as Double Cross at Joshua Tree (what many folks call 5.8).

The climb is located at the far left (away from town) end of the Suesca cliff. Walk along the tracks for about 25 minutes, looking for a clean, steep slab and arête right on the edge of the railroad tracks. This steep, clean and arête has a couple of sparsely bolted routes. LP starts in a shallow, left-facing corner that forms the right margin of this steep, clean face.

Carry gear to at least a blue Camalot (doubles of red, gold and blue Camalots useful; some will be very happy to have a large purple Camalot) and a bunch of shoulder length slings.

Depending on the skills of your follower and your rope drag, you might need to break this up into as many as five or six pitches.

The "LP Details" author dismisses the PG gear rating, but uses terms like "heady" and "very exposed." I think what both of the descriptions are trying to say is that while rated 5.7, LP is not a route your average 5.7 leader should venture onto lightly. It's a 5.7 for a 5.9 leader.