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LP (details) 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 450'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Antoine Fabre y Sergio Gaviria
Page Views: 424
Submitted By: Eric Werfel on Jul 5, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Description 

Classic!!
one of the longest routes in Suesca. aesthetic climbing, two big roofs, dihedral handcracks, and enjoyable face climbing make this is a must-climb. very solid for the grade, heady, and with HUGE exposure, but the protection is good. 3rd pitch roof is very reminiscent of High Exposure at the Gunks.

pitch 1: 5.7, 100' - follow corner/crack past blocky bulges, step right around corner, follow another crack and/or face to the obvious ledge. belay here, or traverse 5m right and belay under the 2nd pitch roof (recommended)

pitch 2: 5.7+, 100' - climb a few meters of chaucy rock (easy, but very exposed and heady) to roof, pull the roof (crux 1), take a deep breath, and enjoy a gorgeous dihedral handcrack (you've earned it) to the next ledge.

pitch 3: 5.7+, 100' - straight ahead you will see a crack in a left-facing corner; though tempting, this is NOT the route. look 5m right, to a large block sticking out under a huge roof (see photo). belly-crawl to the edge of this block and stand up, pull the roof (crux 2), and enjoy easy crack and face to a ledge. belay here, or continue (recommended) ~10m to another ledge with a tree.

pitches 4/5: 5.7, ~200' - follow the obvious handcrack to its conclusion (~100ft), angle up and right on face, and follow chicken-heads to summit. protection on the last 100' is limited to thread-throughs, chicken-heads, and some creative hex placements, but the climbing is easy (~5.4). linking these, there was a LOT of drag. linking with a 60m rope may require using the higher belay at the tree. an intermediate (but semi-hanging) belay could be made at the end of the crack.

descent: walk-off

Protection 

standard rack to 3", plenty of stoppers. hexes were crucial, especially for the 1st belay.

i do not agree with the PG rating indicated by the other page for this route. there is plenty of pro, though it requires good knowledge of stopper placements.

Location 

start in a left-facing corner/crack (see photo) directly next to the railroad tracks, slightly downstream of a dam, at a point where the river gets closer to the tracks, rapid, and loud.


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By Michael Dom
May 16, 2017

You will see a carved arrow in the rock at the start of the third pitch. Do not follow it or your will end up in the jungle.

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