Derek on Variation of C and Canadian Bacon. "...
Beautiful spot with a creek below it. To date there are two walls both of which face west northwest. There are not many climbs and none of the climbs make it into the classic category but you can have a nice day. The lower and tallest wall is maybe 70 feet tall but has a big break about 2/3 of the way up it.
The upper wall is roughly 50 feet tall at and is much more climbable with overhanging jug hauls from 5.8 to 5.11.
To the best of my knowledge this small area was discovered and probably first climbed by Ray Ringle. He and some friends top-roped most of the lines on the upper wall and may have done the same on the lower wall as well. He tried to convince me to set it up for leading but I declined until recently. A single route Venezuelan Mafia 5.11+ was put up on the lower wall by Luis Cisneros and Christian Espanol.
Park at the Sunset Trail parking area which is just opposite Butterfly Trail just past Bear Wallow around milepost 22. Take the road right behind the sign showing the trail. follow this down just past a turn to the right. Rocks will be blocking the road here. Continue past the in the road 100 feet or so then take the road down to the left. When you reach the drainage find the trail and follow it downstream staying right next to the stream. You will pass a short lichen covered cliff with a roof. The next wall down is what the lower wall. Work around the right side and up to reach the other cliff.
Climbing Season For the 7 - Upper Highway area.
Weather station 1.7 miles from here
14 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Lower Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lower Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lower Wall:
Featured Route For Lower Wall
5.8 C 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a AZ
: Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin...
: ... : Lower Wall
A moderate mixed line. Of note, Marcy drilled her first bolt from a hook placement while establishing this route ground up, so congrats to Marcy on a job well done. :) Start at the left-leaning ramp near the right side of the wall. Head up and left about 30 feet to three bolts. The bolts lead up to a traverse that leads directly right. Finish at a rap anchor on a ledge directly above the start of the climb....[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
BETA PHOTO: Lower Wall. Just beyond the tree the trail turns ...
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 13, 2010
My understanding of the routes from left to right:
01) Venezuelan Mafia (5.11+)
02) Raycreational Jug Use (5.11 / Mixed)
03) Marcy's Playground (5.11 / Mixed)
04) Ray Guns (5.12-)
05) Bouldering 101 (5.12)
06) Monster Buck (5.12)
07) Canadian Bacon (5.11)
08) 5.8 C (5.9 / Mixed)
09) A Few Too Many (5.12)
10) Registered NILFs (5.11+)
Note that 'Raycreational Jug Use' and 'Marcy's Playground' reach a large ledge. At this point there is a bolted 5.7 chimney variation on the right.