Lower Sullivan's Rock Climbing
Anyone know the name of this one? Kait Boyle crus...
This is the lead climbing portion of the canyon. Excellent, steep basalt crack climbing. Most routes end at bolt anchors. DO NOT PLACE BOLTS IN THIS CANYON (See Sullivan's Canyon description for reasoning for this bolting restriction)
About 5 miles north of Chino Valley and 1/2 mile south of Paulden look for a gas staion (not the one in Paulden) on the west side of the hwy. Across hwy 89 from this station is the north end of Old Highway 89. Turn east onto this road and look for a left turn (east) onto Sweet Valley Road (dirt). Follow this road for one mile and turn right onto an unnamed dirt road. At 2.1 miles keep left passing a gate and continue another .2 miles to a pullout/parking spot. Hike west from the parking area until the canyon comes into view, you will be on the north rim of the canyon. Look for cairns that mark portions of the trail and some of the descents into the canyon. Several drop in points are possible.
Weather station 6.7 miles from here
53 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',24],['2 Stars',24],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Lower Sullivan's
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lower Sullivan's:
Featured Route For Lower Sullivan's
Dancing Partner 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Arizona
: Central Arizona
: ... : Main Wall
Clip the high first bolt above the first moves over a choss pile. Splitter crack up to a bulge with a couple of funky moves before a ledge. Upper section of climb is fun, but has a lot of dirt. I wised I had my tooth brush with me to get all the silt off of my teeth at the bottom. Upper section with grit is no excuse to stay off of this great climb! Last move to clip the chains is a bit funky....[more] Browse More Classics in Arizona
By Mike A. Lewis
From: Estes Park, CO
Nov 11, 2015
Here are better directions to Lower Sullivan's: Follow Josh's directions - turn left on Sweet Valley Rd. Set your odometer here to "0". Drive one mile. Turn right onto an unnamed dirt road. At 1.7 miles, just after passing a gate on the right, there is a fork. Take the right fork. At 1.9 miles, park in the small parking area.
Go west and downhill directly out of the parking lot toward the small north-south gully below and you will hopefully see the trail that continues west across the gully and along the rim. Follow this good, obvious trail along the rim for 10 minutes (about .4 miles) to the "Concrete Gully." The trail naturally takes you off the rim into the gully, across the gully, and back into the gully. Downclimb the gully (2nd-3rd class) for 50' or so. The crags are left and right of the bottom of the gully.