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1-Papillons
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Low Right Direct T,TR 
Lower Right Arete TR 

Lower Right Arete 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 20'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 41
Submitted By: kenr on Nov 9, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Papillons sector 1 of Rush area overview of routes...

Description 

Interesting moves the whole way. Too bad it's not longer.

Up the right side of the arete.

warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location 

At the right end of the (lower) left side of this sector, about six feet right from directly below two-bolt anchor.

- - > See on this Photo

Protection 

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Two-bolt anchor with mussy hooks. No intermediate bolts for leading.

Top-Roping: Straightforward to reach bolt top anchor by scrambling up around left side.
Avoiding dangerous side-swing if climber falls requires some directional control of the rope. An obvious way to do this is to run the climber's rope around the rear and right side of a big rock on the ledge by the two-bolt top anchor - (it's up to each party to check the stability of this rock.


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