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Lower Peanuts

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Guitar T,S 
Aspenleaf Dihedral T 
Black Pearl S 
Blows Against the Empire T 
Chaucer T 
Cornered, straight up variation T 
Criller  T,TR 
Dihedral T 
Do or Do Not T 
Double Cracks T 
Easy Off T 
Empire Strikes Back, The T,TR 
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life) T,TR 
Faith, Hope and Charity T 
Fickle Finger of Eight T 
Forbidden Planet S 
Good Mourning T,TR 
Home Free T 
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) T 
Just Another Girl's Climb T,S 
Let's Jet S 
Narrow Gate, The T 
No Visible Means of Support T 
Nova T,TR 
Off The Cuff T 
Peanuts T 
Pretender, The T 
Right Escape T 
Sacred and the Profane, The S 
Scorpions T 
Shield, The T 
Sickle T 
Star Track T,TR 
Strata Outta Compton T 
Strolling T 
Tracer T 
Trouble And Strife T,TR 
West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 
Whiskey Gala T 
Wired T 
X-Wing T 
Young, Blonde, and Easy T 
Your Basic Lieback T 

Lower Peanuts Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,400'
Location: 39.92885, -105.28656 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 26,088
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 18, 2006
Forecast:
Today

55° | 42°
Sunday

46° | 38°
Monday

51° | 35°
Tuesday

56° | 40°
Wednesday

61° | 43°
Thursday

62° | 44°
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Topo for Lower Peanuts. Photo by Myke Komarnitsky...

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  • Description 

    There are two smaller, N facing crags that make up the Peanuts Walls - Upper and Lower. This division covers the Lower Peanuts Wall for organizational purposes. Here you will find routes from 1-3 pitches in length. No route here is exceptionally easy nor difficult. This crag has an advantage of shade in the summer heat. Here, you may feel the feeling of being up with the birds while still close to the ground. Also, there are benefits of some element of isolation with excellent views of the entire northern half of Eldorado Canyon, in particular Redgarden Wall and the West Ridge.

    While no climb here is likely to be top twenty in Eldorado Canyon, you can find delightful terrain for traditional-oriented, moderate climber. Some of the gems here include: Your Basic Lieback, 5.6; Star Wars, 5.8; the namesake route, Peanuts (opened by the amazing Layton Kor & Charles Roskosz in 1961), 5.9; Blows Against the Empire, 5.11a; Forbidden Planet, 5.11 a/b; Home Free, 5.11b, & Just Another Girl's Climb, 5.12a/b s.

    The left side of the crag is likely the terrain for the seekers of the obscure or runout. Few climbers travel this side of the crag.

    Note there is still some loose rock here in places. Caution and helmets may be advisable. Ken Black, on the first free ascent of The Shield, fell to his death after pulling a large block off and chopping his rope.

    Descents involve either rappelling or walkoff/scramble off to the climber's right.

    Note, this is not a child nor dog friendly area.

    Getting There 

    There are several ways of approaching the wall. The easiest access is achieved by parking at the western end of the park, possibly at the Rattlesnake Gulch trailhead (about 150m West of the Milton Boulder). Then, head east on this nearly-flat, Fowler Trail probably 1/4 mile until you are below these two crags. Ascend a non-erosive path up the talus field with some boulder hopping to Lower Peanuts.

    The other way of getting here is to hike up the Bastille Trail then head West until you're below the talus field.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 0.4 miles from here

    43 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',2]
    ['<=5.6',3],['5.7',4],['5.8',5],['5.9',4],['5.10',10],['5.11',12],['5.12',3],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Lower Peanuts

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lower Peanuts:
    Your Basic Lieback   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   
    Dihedral   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   
    West Crack (aka Star Wars)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches   
    Cornered, straight up variation   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad   
    Peanuts   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
    Blows Against the Empire   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Do or Do Not   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
    Forbidden Planet   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Scorpions   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
    Young, Blonde, and Easy   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
    The Sacred and the Profane   5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
    Black Pearl   5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lower Peanuts

    Featured Route For Lower Peanuts
    Rock Climbing Photo: Christa Cline starting the crux section of Star Wa...

    West Crack (aka Star Wars) 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  Colorado : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Lower Peanuts
    This is an EXCELLENT 2 pitch or one long pitch up the beautiful Lower Peanuts Wall. Scramble to the far right and up onto the first ledge (lots of loose talus...be careful). Find a large, obtuse corner just below a perfect handcrack in a steep left-facing dihedral (many obtuse corners so make sure you see the obvious handcrack above, some of these other corners have scary pro and are much harder).P1. Climb the corner with variable crack and fingers at top to large loose ledge under beautiful h...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

    Photos of Lower Peanuts Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The view from Green Spur area on a clear Feb. morn...
    The view from Green Spur area on a clear Feb. morn...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Myke Komarnitsky
    BETA PHOTO: Photo by Myke Komarnitsky

    Comments on Lower Peanuts Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By adam brink
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 20, 2007
    Does anyone know the name and rating of the sweet face route up the yellow streak to the right of Scorpions and left of the bolted 5.13 arete? Thanks.

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