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Lower North Face 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 546
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jul 13, 2003

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Description 

This route ascends the leftmost route on the North Face of The Monolith. To access this climb, as soon as the trail from the parking lot "gets" to the monolith, instead of taking the trail over a narrow gap (which is actually a bridge, but you can't tell), head up and over a 4th class 6 foot boulder on the right. Step over a gap to the left to find a belay bolt, and some very closely spaced bolts just above a belay anchor which is bolted in a waist level to the rock you are standing on.

Climb through a very crimpy first six bolts to a final confusing crux. Pull out to the left after the crux, and you will find a last bolt in the slab above that you really don't need, and will do nothing but cause problems if someone else wants to top rope.

This was an aid ladder, and can still be aided at 5.6 C1.

Protection 

7 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.


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By John Hovell
From: San Francisco, California
Mar 13, 2017

I believe the bolt count listed here is incorrect. Assuming we're talking about the left-most route on the north face, there are 5 bolts total: 4 on the techy vertical 5.11 face, plus a 5th bolt on the low angle face (a 2nd hanger is here as well, perhaps the original anchor. After the 5th bolt, head up and right on low-angle easy slab to a shared anchor with Rocket In My Pocket (anchor was 1 rusty bolt + 1 homemade anchor with chains).

Fun climb, if only it were longer. 3 out of 4 stars for the first 4 bolts.

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