Lower Meadow Rock Climbing
Sweet layback at the start
The Lower Meadow area is made up of the cliffline north of the river, and downstream of the Highway 19 bridge. Its stand-out cliff is definitely the Puppy Chow/Greatest Show area, but there are quite a few more adventuresque cliffs farther downstream. Some of the most classic routes of all grades, sport and trad are here, such as Lynn Hill's Greatest Show On Earth (13a trad), Puppy Chow (12c sport), Toxic Hueco (11d sport), and Scott Franklin's Mango Tango (possibly the eastern U.S.'s first 14a). This area tends to get a bit more sun than shade, but it is possible to climb here year round.
For all the areas described here, take your first left after the Meadow River Bridge as you drive north from Fayetteville, onto Underwood Rd. Drive about one hundred yards, and when the road makes a hard right, park on the side of the road. You will hike toward the gorge through some of the ugliest, trashiest redneck campsites in the area. Keep trending right (left will take you to the Upper Meadow buttresses), and after 5-10 minutes of easy walking on a four-wheeler track you will see cliff-line to your right.
Weather station 4.5 miles from here
67 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',30],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Lower Meadow
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lower Meadow:
Featured Route For Lower Meadow
White Trash 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c West Virginia
: The New River Gorge
: ... : Toxic Hueco Area
This is one of the finest short powerful routes in the New River Gorge region. When viewing it from the ground it is intimidating because it is hard to identify a single positive hold on the pristine white stone. Start by soloing to a large platform 20' off the ground. Be sure to stick clip this one before battling up through exquisite, well textured slopers. The difficulty arises immediately after clipping the third bolt. Here you must bear down on some shallow pockets, make a long rightwa...[more] Browse More Classics in West Virginia