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Lower Meadow

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Toxic Hueco Area 

Lower Meadow Rock Climbing 


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Location: 38.14966, -80.92704 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Ladd, Chris Whisenhunt, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: camhead on Nov 27, 2013
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43° | 35°
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47° | 33°
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Description 

The Lower Meadow area is made up of the cliffline north of the river, and downstream of the Highway 19 bridge. Its stand-out cliff is definitely the Puppy Chow/Greatest Show area, but there are quite a few more adventuresque cliffs farther downstream. Some of the most classic routes of all grades, sport and trad are here, such as Lynn Hill's Greatest Show On Earth (13a trad), Puppy Chow (12c sport), Toxic Hueco (11d sport), and Scott Franklin's Mango Tango (possibly the eastern U.S.'s first 14a). This area tends to get a bit more sun than shade, but it is possible to climb here year round.

Getting There 

For all the areas described here, take your first left after the Meadow River Bridge as you drive north from Fayetteville, onto Underwood Rd. Drive about one hundred yards, and when the road makes a hard right, park on the side of the road. You will hike toward the gorge through some of the ugliest, trashiest redneck campsites in the area. Keep trending right (left will take you to the Upper Meadow buttresses), and after 5-10 minutes of easy walking on a four-wheeler track you will see cliff-line to your right.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.5 miles from here

67 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',30],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',4],['5.8',3],['5.9',8],['5.10',13],['5.11',15],['5.12',12],['5.13',6],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lower Meadow

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lower Meadow:
Boogie Till Ya Need Glasses   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 70'   Toxic Hueco Area
Begoon/Artz Corner   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Greatest Show Area
Arachniphobia   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Sunkist Wall
Tabasco Fur   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Moon Wall
By the Way, I Did Your Mom   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 60'   Toxic Hueco Area
Winter Harvest   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Moon Wall
Chimpanzabubbas   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Toxic Hueco Area
Just Another Pretty Face   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 70'   Greatest Show Area
Trojans   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Toxic Hueco Area
Mr. Mogley   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Sunkist Wall
Ghandian Dilution   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 80'   Toxic Hueco Area
Cat Food   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   Toxic Hueco Area
Toxic Hueco   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Toxic Hueco Area
Gato   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 70'   Toxic Hueco Area
Big Top   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 70'   Greatest Show Area
Go Cat Go!   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Toxic Hueco Area
Puppy Chow   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 100'   Greatest Show Area
Fruity Pants (AKA Porter's 12c)   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Greatest Show Area
White Trash   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Toxic Hueco Area
Lavender Days   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Greatest Show Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lower Meadow

Featured Route For Lower Meadow
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the bolted crux move

Chimpanzabubbas 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Toxic Hueco Area
This is a really good route. If you brought your trad rack, do it! It feels like a sport route with gear. Start by climb up some large flakes, heading up and left to reach the bolt on a thin face. Make 1 technical thin move (crux) and the head up and right to a stance. The crux is much easier if you are tall. Otherwise you won't be able to easily reach past it. The fall is safe though and is protected by a bomber bolt. From here, climb up the overhanging face on jugs and plates to the...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

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