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Lower Meadow

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Lower Meadow Rock Climbing 


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Location: 38.14966, -80.92704 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 34,143
Administrators: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: camhead on Nov 27, 2013
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Begoon/Artz Corner

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

  • **LATELY THERE HAS BEEN A TREND OF PARKING DIRECTLY ON THE SHOULDER OF ROUTE 19. DO NOT PARK PAST THE SIGN THAT SAYS NO PARKING. THIS SIGN EXISTS TO ALLOW EMERGENCY VEHICLE ACCESS TO LOWER MEADOW. COUNT ON LOCAL LAW ENFORCEMENT TO START TOWING VEHICLES, AS THEY ARE SICK OF IT. DON'T MAKE CLIMBERS IN THE NEW RIVER GORGE LOOK BAD AS A USER GROUP. PLEASE HEED THIS WARNING.***

The Lower Meadow area is made up of the cliffline north of the river, and downstream of the Highway 19 bridge. Its stand-out cliff is definitely the Puppy Chow/Greatest Show area, but there are quite a few more adventuresque cliffs farther downstream. Some of the most classic routes of all grades, sport and trad are here, such as Lynn Hill's Greatest Show On Earth (13a trad), Puppy Chow (12c sport), Toxic Hueco (11d sport), and Scott Franklin's Mango Tango (possibly the eastern U.S.'s first 14a). This area tends to get a bit more sun than shade, but it is possible to climb here year round.

Getting There 

For all the areas described here, take your first left after the Meadow River Bridge as you drive north from Fayetteville, onto Underwood Rd. Drive about one hundred yards, and when the road makes a hard right, park on the side of the road. You will hike toward the gorge through some of the ugliest, trashiest redneck campsites in the area. Keep trending right (left will take you to the Upper Meadow buttresses), and after 5-10 minutes of easy walking on a four-wheeler track you will see cliff-line to your right.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.5 miles from here

74 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',12],['3 Stars',32],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',4],['5.8',3],['5.9',9],['5.10',13],['5.11',15],['5.12',17],['5.13',7],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lower Meadow

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lower Meadow:
Fritz Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 80'   Moon Wall
Begoon/Artz Corner   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Greatest Show Area
Arachniphobia   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Sunkist Wall
Tabasco Fur   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Moon Wall
By the Way, I Did Your Mom   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 60'   Toxic Hueco Area
Winter Harvest   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Moon Wall
Chimpanzabubbas   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Toxic Hueco Area
Bust a Move   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Moon Wall
Just Another Pretty Face   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 70'   Greatest Show Area
Mr. Mogley   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Sunkist Wall
Ghandian Dilution   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 80'   Toxic Hueco Area
Trojans   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Toxic Hueco Area
Cat Food   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   Toxic Hueco Area
Toxic Hueco   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Toxic Hueco Area
Gato   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 70'   Toxic Hueco Area
Go Cat Go!   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Toxic Hueco Area
Puppy Chow   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 100'   Greatest Show Area
Fruity Pants (AKA Porter's 12c)   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Greatest Show Area
Mighty Dog (aka Lavender Days)   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Greatest Show Area
White Trash   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Toxic Hueco Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lower Meadow

Featured Route For Lower Meadow
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeremy Steck, heading into the traverse sequence o...

Go Cat Go! 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  West Virginia : The New River Gorge : ... : Toxic Hueco Area
This is a great route! Would be deserving of more stars if it was a bit longer. Start on a low boulder below some underclings and hand jams. Make a difficult move to get started and head right at the 2nd bolt. From here, find a kneebar, then continue straight up to the 3rd bolt. Get a quick shake and traverse up and right to reach the 4th bolt. From here, keep it together and head up into the short dihedral below the roof. At the roof, hand over hand traverse left to reach the monster j...[more]   Browse More Classics in West Virginia

Comments on Lower Meadow Add Comment
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By Pnelson
Administrator
May 23, 2017
Climbers and kayakers sometimes park on the shoulder of southbound Route 19, just north of the bridge. On busy weekends, there can easily be two dozen vehicles here. DO NOT PARK past the sign that says, wait for it, NO PARKING. This sign exists to allow emergency vehicle access to the Lower Meadow, and the local law enforcement is getting sick of it being blocked.

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