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Potrillo Cliffs
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Grandstanding T,TR 
Gymnast T,TR 
Heron's Fissure T,TR 
Jane T,TR 
Kor's Dog T,TR 
Left Cave Route T,TR 
Lower Kor's Crack T,TR 
Pieces of Eight T,TR 
Pillars of Hercules (left var.) T,TR 
Pillars of Hercules (right var.) T,TR 
Porky's Bad Luck T,TR 
Right Cave Route T,TR 
Route 1 TR 
Route 1.5 T,TR 
Route 19 T,TR 
Route 4 T,TR 
Shaky Flake T,TR 
Sleeper T,TR 
Tarzan T,TR 
Upper Kor's Crack T,TR 

Lower Kor's Crack 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: LA Mountaineers (aid), First Free Ascent: Layton Kor, 1968
Page Views: 1,061
Submitted By: George Perkins on Feb 20, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Description 

Start behind the juniper, and move up the slick thin finger crack. The crux is about 8 feet up, and can be protected with cams and an attentive belay. Half way up the cliff, you'll reach a big ledge. On the FFA, Kor went left, to Upper Kor's Crack (5.9), but continuing straight up on Gymnast (5.8) is the most obvious choice.

Attention: this crack might eat your cams if you let them walk in. 2 are stuck in there, and have been for years.

The original 5.9 rating is a bit of a sandbag, as with many "5.9"s Layton Kor put up in the western U.S. when there were no 5.10s. Clark's guide calls this 5.10d- which is an overestimate, in my opinion this climb is easier than every 5.10d, 10c, or 10b at the Playground and the Old New Place. The difficulty is very likely subjective to the size of your fingers (bigger is probably better) and your confidence in trusting your feet in the slick corner. It's also hard to rate because it's really just a boulder problem crux.

Location 

Just left of the point of the cliff, Lower Kor's is the thin finger crack starting behind the juniper.
It is route #15 in the Potrillo miniguide

Protection 

Cams & nuts to 3".
2-bolt anchor.


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By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Feb 23, 2008
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

FWIW, I have big fingers and I'd say this climb is solid 5.10 on the bottom section.
By Devin Shunk
Oct 26, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

No way this is a 5.9. Maybe if you use the tree. Even then I would say it would still be a low 10.
By Adam Roy
Jan 22, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I'd give it a 10d, if only for the stopper moves down low.