Grotto Left (East Side) Rock Climbing
Scoping out the lines, March 2012
This area encompasses the entire left wall of the Grotto. Most of the climbs are typical Diablo climbs similar to Early wall, and Winter wall utilizing sloping crimps on vertical walls. As you continue up the grotto beginning around Evil Paradise
(~100 yards up canyon) the upper tier's less featured tan basalt connects with the canyon floor, resulting in a more technical and varied style of climbing.
The rock, while incredibly dense, can be extremely fractured, requiring precautions taken to prevent rock fall. Climb cautiously and consider helmets and belaying (and standing) out of the fall line of climbers. Be especially careful after the winter freeze / thaw cycle.
The wall is East Facing so it gets morning shade and afternoon sun. In the winter it gets more shade and gets more sun in the summer. In early April the wall stays shaded until ~3:00. A good tool for estimating Sun / Shade beta is is the online sunearthtool.com estimator tool
After reaching the Grotto area, the Grotto Left is the left side of the Grotto. This area includes everything on the left wall, except the upper Tier climbs.
Weather station 6.7 miles from here
29 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Grotto Left (East Side)
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Grotto Left (East Side)
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Grotto Left (East Side):
Good 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Evil 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Bedeviled 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Muscle Crow 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Grotto Left (East Side)
Prescribed Burn 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c New Mexico
: Santa Fe Area
: ... : Grotto Left (East Side)
Located at the far (south) end of the Grotto's left side are two enjoyable routes with nice position. Prescribed Burn is the left route of the two. Access the base of the route via a short fourth class scramble up the small ridge below the route or hike around the ridge and back up. From the belay platform, edge out left and up to clip the first bolt in a green, lichen-covered face. Side pull your way up to the big, comfy ledge. From the big ledge, climb cracks up and left past the second bolt ...[more] Browse More Classics in New Mexico
BETA PHOTO: Map of Evil Paradise area of the Grotto. Courtesy...
BETA PHOTO: Picture of lower grotto routes Courtesy of Rick ...