Grotto Left (East Side) Rock Climbing
Scoping out the lines, March 2012
This area encompasses the entire left wall of the Grotto. Most of the climbs are typical Diablo climbs similar to Early wall, and Winter wall utilizing sloping crimps on vertical walls. As you continue up the grotto beginning around Evil Paradise
(~100 yards up canyon) the upper tier's less featured tan basalt connects with the canyon floor, resulting in a more technical and varied style of climbing.
The rock, while incredibly dense, can be extremely fractured, requiring precautions taken to prevent rock fall. Climb cautiously and consider helmets and belaying (and standing) out of the fall line of climbers. Be especially careful after the winter freeze / thaw cycle.
The wall is East Facing so it gets morning shade and afternoon sun. In the winter it gets more shade and gets more sun in the summer. In early April the wall stays shaded until ~3:00. A good tool for estimating Sun / Shade beta is is the online sunearthtool.com estimator tool
After reaching the Grotto area, the Grotto Left is the left side of the Grotto. This area includes everything on the left wall, except the upper Tier climbs.
Weather station 6.7 miles from here
30 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Grotto Left (East Side)
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Grotto Left (East Side)
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Grotto Left (East Side):
Good 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Evil 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Bedeviled 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Muscle Crow 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Grotto Left (East Side)
Bedeviled 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a New Mexico
: Santa Fe Area
: ... : Grotto Left (East Side)
Bedeviled begins on the arete and eventually moves left to a short crack over a bulge. The belay anchors of the Unnamed Crack are on the ledge above this bulge, but Bedeviled continues up and right without using these anchors. Move over another bulge (technical crux) and cruise to the anchors.The variety of climbing and features (arete, face, traverse, and 2 bulges), makes this route an area classic! Well in my book:)...[more] Browse More Classics in New Mexico
BETA PHOTO: Map of Evil Paradise area of the Grotto. 8 - Evil ...
BETA PHOTO: Picture of lower grotto routes Courtesy of Rick ...