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Lower Gorge

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Lower Gorge Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.50463, -118.56819 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 34,374
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tom Helvie on Jul 21, 2006
Forecast:
Tonight

41°
Tuesday

73° | 45°
Wednesday

76° | 45°
Thursday

79° | 47°
Friday

79° | 50°
Saturday

81° | 51°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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MisterE on the second ascent of Muppet Show.

Description 

One of the lesser crowded areas despite having great routes in all grades. Penstock and Warning Signs are the most popular areas in the Lower gorge. The power plant does detract from the atmosphere. All of the cliffs are located off of the power plant road.

Getting There 

Either approach from the central gully, taking a left at the bottom of the gully, or by the South gorge approach (middle power plant road).

The page location shows the south parking area.

Climbing Season



Weather station 17.6 miles from here

89 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',29],['2 Stars',49],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',6],['5.7',5],['5.8',12],['5.9',12],['5.10',37],['5.11',12],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lower Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lower Gorge:
Finked   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 80'   Diamondback Area
Watch For Rocks   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Warning Signs
Mile High Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Pink Face
Warning: Laser Beam   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Warning Signs
Pink Panther   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Pink Face
Coming Attractions   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport   Big Tower
Cult Classic   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 60'   Big Tower
Elmo   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Warning Signs
Valley 5.8   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Powerhouse Wall
Road Wave   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 50'   Road Wave Crag
Director's Cut   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Big Tower
Low-hanging Fruit   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Pink Face
Results May Vary   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Warning Signs
Naked Gun   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Pink Face
Timeless   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   Warning Signs
Warning Signs   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Warning Signs
House of Cards   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Warning Signs
D.W.P.   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Penstock Rock
Pumping Groundwater   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 90'   Penstock Rock
Flashflood   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Penstock Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lower Gorge

Featured Route For Lower Gorge
Rock Climbing Photo: Not the best scenery, but one of the best routes i...

Flashflood 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  California : Sierra Eastside : ... : Penstock Rock
Incredible line straight up the center of the face. Follow small edges up to a slight traverse left to gain the flake. Layback up the flake and make a long, strenuous move back onto the face. Another hard move guards the finishing slab. Sustained. Try not to think about Bachar soloing it while your climbing....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Comments on Lower Gorge Add Comment
Show which comments
By grizz Burton
Oct 18, 2008
Does anyone know anything about the three new lines in the lower gorge that you encounter on your left, just as the road flattens? I know that they have brand new gold colored hangers, mussy anchors and are probably in the 5.7 to 5.9 range. They use up all of a 60m rope to lower. Because of the blocky nature of the top, there is a lot of rope drag to toprope.
By Bruce Willey
From: Bishop, CA
Feb 4, 2010
Did them yesterday, well two of them (far left and far right) before we ran out of daylight. More like mountaineering routes (respectfully) thann the usual sporty ORG experience. They were good, though. Reckon they come in at 5.6 or so.
By rex parker
From: las vegas n.v
Dec 22, 2011
yeah i seen people climbing that yesterday.. they left their gear on the pavement....woah be carefull water and power come screaming around their in their trucks... also before these climbs up the road on the white pumice rock a crazy new slab climb with six bolts to shunt anchor looks sweet right nof the pavement after the second bend coming down the hill... who dunnit? rex
By Howie Stern
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Dec 22, 2011
That new route just down from the parking lot was put up by myself, Michael Forkash, and Kent Barton back in December of 2009. It is called Road Wave (10c). Very fun!
By MisterE Wolfe
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 6, 2017
The GPS coordinates for the Lower Gorge Turn-off are: 37 29.375'N, 118 34.044' W

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