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Lower extremity injuries - common?

Original Post
Shepido · · CO · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 50

How common are acute lower extremity injuries in sport climbing? Specifically broken bones? I've read some official research on Google scholar, and generally lower extremity injuries from bouldering are lumped in with sport and trad climbing injuries.

A friend of mine fell leading a 5.8 and broke several bones in his foot. Some of the breaks were initially missed during the first evaluation and have not fused back together. It will likely require some surgery and serious downtime. It's been particularly devastating to him and he's swore off climbing (at least temporarily).

His injury has really given me pause probably because I imagine the same thing happening to me. Just popping off at that inopportune spot right above a shelf and boom, out for 8 plus weeks.

I know that falls on harder grades are typically in steeper terrain and therefore safer, but I've got to get through all the "easy" grades first. I would like to do so without suffering the same fortune. Am I being overly paranoid?

Luc Ried · · Batesville, AR · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 440

In my opinion, you're over-analyzing things. But that's all this is, is my opinion. If you're worried about falling and getting hurt while you're climbing, then you may be more likely to pop off. Just get out there, have fun, and make it worth the pain.

Jesse Marks · · Denver, CO · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 330

I don't have any data, but yeah, I'd imagine they can be pretty common. Probably even more so in alpine climbing, where rock quality is worse and the probability of falling on non-vertical / ledgey (is that even a word?) terrain is higher?

I mean really it just depends on all the factors we are looking at when we choose to commit to a move in which we might fall while on lead, namely the probability and consequences of falling. I'd say best bet is just to think about the physics of what a fall might look like in a given scenario before committing. If it's high probability and ugly, don't do it... or at least think through how to fall correctly / not get mucked up on the wrong side of your rope / draws on the way down.

But yeah, if it's an easy move for you, just chill out and have fun! :)

Louis Eubank · · Portland, ME · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 181

Well, if you want to look at statistics, you are more likely to be injured while driving to the crag rather than injured while climbing.

Luc Ried · · Batesville, AR · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 440

And for what it's worth, the only time I've been hurt climbing over the last 6 years was climbing in a gym.

Schalk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 15
Louis Eubank wrote:Well, if you want to look at statistics, you are more likely to be injured while driving to the crag rather than injured while climbing.
I've heard this argument before, but have never been able to find good data on this. Do you have any sources? It would make those "but climbing is dangerous" conversations much easier.

I've definitely had more climbing partners be sidelined due to non-climbing related injuries than due to anything that happened climbing.
mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

So much fear.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

Dun fall

Be a wuzzzay toppu roperu tofu guy

Thats all there is to it

;)

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 16,608
Shepido wrote:I know that falls on harder grades are typically in steeper terrain and therefore safer, but I've got to get through all the "easy" grades first.
What's this "got to"?
It's your choice to try to climb a sequence where there's a significant chance you might fall and have your lower extremities hit something.

The danger is real. I took a short fall on a less-than-vertical bolted route, my toe struck a small slopy ledge, and the result was a badly strained my calf muscle. Took me like six weeks to feel mostly recovered. Almost messed up a big climbing trip. Made my decide that risking even minor injuries is usually not worth it for me.

To avoid injuries to lower extremities ...
one approach is to only lead stuff well within your limits. Of course you're not going to improve very fast that way.

Practicing down-climbing helps, because then if you unexpectedly run into something risky where you didn't plan for it, you could get down to the safety of the previous bolt.

Another thing that helps is to find a crag where the bolts are closer together, so you don't hit things so hard if you fall. Or you could create routes where the bolts are closer together and more carefully positioned for safety. That's what they've been doing at some crags in Europe.

I know some people who often carry several pieces of Trad gear when they climb a "sport" route which they are worried might be risky for them.

Then there's several methods for getting the rope running through some protection _above_ you while you're trying a sequence with some risk.

Most of these methods take more time, or more equipment.

More importantly they will expose you to the criticism that you're scared and you're giving into your fear.

It's your choice.

Ken
Shepido · · CO · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 50

By got to I meant, I have to be able to climb the lower grades before progressing to higher grades. I.e. I cannot climb that overhanging 11 because I am not that skilled yet.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

i know quite a few people who have broken or jacked up their feet/ankles/knees/legs in climbing falls. i think your concern is very valid. also, having a belayer that knows what type of catch to provide for different scenarios is pretty important if you know you have a good chance of falling on a route.

aikibujin · · Castle Rock, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 300
Louis Eubank wrote:Well, if you want to look at statistics, you are more likely to be injured while driving to the crag rather than injured while climbing.
Where is this "statistics" that you want us to look at?

This is one of the most repeated cliché in the outdoor world without any actual data to back it up. It is probably true that more people get injured car accidents than in climbing. But at the same time, there are many times more drivers than climbers. In order to say one thing is riskier than the other, you need to look at the ratio between the number of injuries and the total number of people engaged in that activity.

I'll give you some actual statistics to look at.


Source: utahavalanchecenter.org/blo…

Unfortunately they don't have any numbers for rock climbing. But if we assume rock climbing is as dangerous as running a marathon (sarcasm of course), rock climbing is still more dangerous than if you drive 1 hour a day, which is just about my daily commute to work. I basically have to be a trucker or a cab driver (drive 8 hours per day) to make driving more dangerous than running a marathon. You would have to ride a motorcycle 8 hours per day to get close to the risk of "alpine mountaineering".

It is also worth noting that if you're 20, there's a one-in-a-million chance that you will die if you get out of bed. So my suggestion is to stay in bed for the whole year.
damon farnum · · MA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 20

A good friend once told me that if you're a climber and you don't accept the fact that you could get hurt doing what you love then you are not being honest with yourself.

You'll have to decide for yourself, but yes, you may get hurt. And it is also very normal to climb for years unscathed. After getting hurt, not climbing wasn't really an option I entertained, but that's me.

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,812

I don't think statistics are going to help. There are too many variables for them to meaningfully represent you. For example: where does one fall on a scale from 1 to 10 as a risk taker? As having good protection judgment? Etc..

One can find a climbing style they enjoy enough for the risk it carries (e.g., top rope versus boulder) or find something better to do. For most, there are better things to do.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103
aikibujin wrote: In order to say one thing is riskier than the other, you need to look at the ratio between the number of injuries and the total number of people engaged in that activity.
This is close, but not quite accurate. You look at the number of person-hours of the activity performed. This is how you then look at driving for 8 hours versus climbing for 8 hours.

Bill's point is a good one. In general, you hope that both populations that you are getting from are big enough that you can assume that the distribution of risk is fairly equal between the 2 populations. This gets kind of interesting because most people (non-climbers) probably think rock climbing is risky but driving isn't.

IIRC, the data that I have seen (I think there are 2 studies on this?) seemed to indicate that the number of injuries per person-hour and number of deaths per person-hour were somewhat comparable between climbing and driving.
Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974

Seems like you should be worrying more about your hands, arms and shoulders.

Injury Trends in Rock Climbers: Evaluation of a Case Series of 911 Injuries Between 2009 and 2012

Volker Schöffl, MD, PhD, MHBAcorrespondenceemail, Dominik Popp, MD, Thomas Küpper, MD, PhD, Isabelle Schöffl, MD, PhD, MSc
DOI: dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.wem.20…

Objective
Rock climbing is a widely performed sport. This prospective single-institution study evaluated the demographics of climbing-related injuries to improve our comprehension of current injury characteristics.

Methods
During a 4-year period, 836 patients with a total of 911 independent climbing injuries were prospectively evaluated using a standard questionnaire and examination protocol.

Results
Of all injuries, 833 were on the upper extremities, 58 on the lower. Seventeen injuries were Union International des Associations d’Alpinisme (UIAA) grade 1 injuries, 881 were grade 2, and 13 were grade 3. No higher UIAA graded injuries occurred. Overall, 380 were acute injuries (359 were seen in clinic, 21 were seen through the emergency department), and 531 were overstrain injuries (all seen in clinic). Finger injuries accounted for 52% of all injuries, the shoulder being the second most frequent location. Pulley injuries were the most frequent finger injuries. Of 20 injured young climbers under the age of 15 years, 14 had an epiphyseal fracture (all epiphyseal fractures: mean age 14 years, range 12 to 15 years). Male climbers were significantly older (P < .05), had more climbing years (P < .05), and were climbing at a higher climbing level (P < .01). Older, more experienced climbers had significantly more overstrain injuries than acute injuries (P < .05).

Conclusions
When comparing this study with our previous study from 1998 to 2001, there are some notable differences. Although pulley injuries are still the most common climbing injury, there are now more A4 pulley injuries than A2. Shoulder injuries are becoming more common, as are epiphyseal fractures among young climbers. It is important to understand current patterns of climbing injuries so that health providers can target interventions appropriately.

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,374
Shepido wrote:By got to I meant, I have to be able to climb the lower grades before progressing to higher grades. I.e. I cannot climb that overhanging 11 because I am not that skilled yet.
Just because you don't think you can lead higher grades doesn't mean you can't climb them. Climb second, or on top rope with "better" climbers, and flail away! If you aren't totally focused on ticks, or even completing a climb, you can have a lot of fun, learn a lot, and, once in a while, pull off a complete miracle.

Consider asking folks about beginner climbs in your area. There is a big difference between lower ratings and good for beginners.

Last, let your partner help you with whatever the nemesis de jour is. A good butt kicker that you totally trust will boost your climbing pretty quick! : )
aikibujin · · Castle Rock, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 300
slim wrote: This is close, but not quite accurate. You look at the number of person-hours of the activity performed. This is how you then look at driving for 8 hours versus climbing for 8 hours.
Yes, you're correct. I was a little sloppy with my wording. I realized it later and was going to come back and change it. But then I got too busy doing other stuff.
Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
Old lady H wrote: Climb second, or on top rope with "better" climbers, and flail away!
Flail to train is training to flail.

Seriously, you want to become a climber or a flailer?
Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,374
Mark E Dixon wrote: Flail to train is training to flail. Seriously, you want to become a climber or a flailer?
I also said find good beginner climbs and partners who will help with whatever it is you are working on.

Putting yourself on something you think is "way too hard" can be really enlightening. And yes, flailing away. Right now, for me, I mantle stuff tucked up under my chin like a violently spasming beached whale. I am well aware of the inglorious technique, but I get there, and try everything I could possibly push myself to try, to do so. Work hard, practice, practice, practice, learn all you can, but don't be afraid to just flat out go for it anyway. : )
Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
Old lady H wrote: I also said find good beginner climbs and partners who will help with whatever it is you are working on. Putting yourself on something you think is "way too hard" can be really enlightening. And yes, flailing away. Right now, for me, I mantle stuff tucked up under my chin like a violently spasming beached whale. I am well aware of the inglorious technique, but I get there, and try everything I could possibly push myself to try, to do so. Work hard, practice, practice, practice, learn all you can, but don't be afraid to just flat out go for it anyway. : )
You will get good at what you practice. If you choose to practice flailing and spasming that's fine by me.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
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