Lower Cheeks Rock Climbing
Ian on the Gerberding Route (9+).
The Cheeks comprise the large white formation on the right side of the Upper Walls. It is left of the Diamond, and above and left of Duck Wall and Lookout Point.
The Lower Cheeks is the bottom half, and ends on the large ledge splitting the formation called The Beach. As this ledge is huge and easily accessed by a cable, the Lower Cheeks is perhaps the best place for toproping at Index. And like the Upper Cheeks, has routes that stay dry during rainfall.
Routes here include such classics as The Zipper, (.10b) and the spectacular Clay, (.11+), as well as several quality sport climbs such as Friendly Fire (10b), Engines of Archimedes (11d), and all Dogs Go to Heaven (.12c).
Upon reaching the Upper Wall via the trail (about 30 minutes from the Country), you will see a water streak and/or waterfall. Turn right and cross the stream, following a path downwards and eventually back up. You will pass many routes to your left, eventually reaching Clay, which is an obvious left-facing corner. Total: about 40 minutes from the Country.
It is easy to set up topropes on the Lower Cheeks, particularly so on the left side. Here several bolt anchors are set along the Perverse Traverse, which is easy to walk onto. Routes include
The Green Room
Engines of Archimedes
Just before the traverse, one can use the tree in front of the large block to toprope
Black Planet (5.9)
Ted, Ted Nugent (11c)
By traversing onto the Beach, one can rap down to the anchors atop P1 of Clay and TR that route. Also, the nearby Pressure Drop Wall has several classic crack lines that are easily TRed.
Also, if you climb P1 of The Zipper (10b), you can TR with one rope three other routes on the slab.
Climbing Season For the Upper Town Wall area.
Weather station 1.0 miles from here
17 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Lower Cheeks
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lower Cheeks
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lower Cheeks:
The Zipper 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch
The Wizard 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch
The Green Room 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Clay 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Featured Route For Lower Cheeks