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Lower Buckhorn Wash

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Flapjack Tower T 
Fools Paradise T 
Groovin' at the Beach T 
I'm Rick James, Bitch S 
James Tower AKA The Lightblub T 
Jamison Engineering T 
Life During Wartime 
Outhouse Tower - Mallory's Mountain Marmalade 
Short Stack T 
Soup Kitchen S 
Whale, The T 
Wisdom Tooth - Cryptogramic Forest T 

Lower Buckhorn Wash Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on Oct 22, 2002
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Scenic picture looking right at Chocolate Wall. P...


There are several concentrations of routes on walls just off the road and up the sidecanyons including the Sex Wall and Pine Canyon Wall. Most of the routes require you to find a break in the Chinle to access the climbs.

Getting There 

Lower Buckhorn Wash routes extend north from the San Rafael River into the Buckhorn Wash up to a large camping area on the righthand side of the road. The campsites are at the base of a narrow wash, and there are several climbs on the buttress immediately past the wash with slings at the 100' mark that provide a good landmark. This camping area is around three miles from the bridge over the San Rafael.

Climbing Season

For the San Rafael Swell - North area.

Weather station 20.5 miles from here

14 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lower Buckhorn Wash

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lower Buckhorn Wash:
Flapjack Tower   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   
Haagenschlong   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1     Aid, 3 pitches   
Outhouse Tower - Mallory's Mountain Marmalade   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A1+     Aid, 2 pitches, 150'   
James Tower AKA The Lightblub   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 200'   
Jamison Engineering   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Short Stack   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Wisdom Tooth - Cryptogramic Forest   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 240'   
Soup Kitchen   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 84'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lower Buckhorn Wash

Featured Route For Lower Buckhorn Wash
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark Owen on his way up to The Lightbulb. (James T...

James Tower AKA The Lightblub 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1  Utah : San Rafael Swell : ... : Lower Buckhorn Wash
James Tower is the knob located on the west side of Buckhorn Wash approximately 1 mile north of the river. There is a pullout on the west side of the road a little way past the tower. To breach the chinle hike up the wash (along the chinle) to the west of the pullout until an easy scramble is reached.The route begins on the north side of the tower in a handcrack and winds left around to the south side and a big ledge. The crack gets progressively larger as it curves around the tower. There i...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Lower Buckhorn Wash Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Wyatt Edwards about to start the Bombay Chimney on...
Wyatt Edwards about to start the Bombay Chimney on...

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By Brian Milhaupt
From: Golden, CO
Dec 17, 2002
Correction: 2.3 miles from the bridge

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