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Lower Buckhorn Wash

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Echoes 
Flapjack Tower T 
Fools Paradise T 
Groovin' at the Beach T 
Haagenschlong 
I'm Rick James, Bitch S 
James Tower AKA The Lightblub T 
Jamison Engineering T 
Life During Wartime 
Outhouse Tower - Mallory's Mountain Marmalade 
Short Stack T 
Soup Kitchen S 
Whale, The T 
Wisdom Tooth - Cryptogramic Forest T 

Lower Buckhorn Wash Rock Climbing 


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Page Views: 12,400
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on Oct 22, 2002
Forecast:
Tonight

17°
Tuesday

34° | 11°
Wednesday

27° | 7°
Thursday

29° | 17°
Friday

35° | 23°
Saturday

39° | 23°
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Wyatt Edwards about to start the Bombay Chimney on...

Description 

There are several concentrations of routes on walls just off the road and up the sidecanyons including the Sex Wall and Pine Canyon Wall. Most of the routes require you to find a break in the Chinle to access the climbs.

Getting There 

Lower Buckhorn Wash routes extend north from the San Rafael River into the Buckhorn Wash up to a large camping area on the righthand side of the road. The campsites are at the base of a narrow wash, and there are several climbs on the buttress immediately past the wash with slings at the 100' mark that provide a good landmark. This camping area is around three miles from the bridge over the San Rafael.

Climbing Season

For the San Rafael Swell - North area.

Weather station 20.5 miles from here

14 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',3],['5.10',2],['5.11',5],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lower Buckhorn Wash

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lower Buckhorn Wash:
Flapjack Tower   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   
Haagenschlong   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1     Aid, 3 pitches   
Outhouse Tower - Mallory's Mountain Marmalade   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A1+     Aid, 2 pitches, 150'   
James Tower AKA The Lightblub   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 200'   
Jamison Engineering   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Short Stack   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Soup Kitchen   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 84'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lower Buckhorn Wash

Featured Route For Lower Buckhorn Wash
Rock Climbing Photo: The route in it's entirety.

Short Stack 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  UT : San Rafael Swell : ... : Lower Buckhorn Wash
This route is on the Chocolate Wall, which is located on the west side of Buckhorn Wash a couple tenths of a mile north of Pine Canyon. The route is easily visible from BWR as the prominent splitter facing the road on the dark face.The approach from the BWR is straighforward and takes about five to ten minutes.A very diverse route starting with 20' of 5.8 offwidth with protection in the crack behind. This gives way to some excellent small hands in the back of a V-pod and finishes with fingers ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Comments on Lower Buckhorn Wash Add Comment
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By Brian Milhaupt
From: Golden, CO
Dec 17, 2002
Correction: 2.3 miles from the bridge