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Lower Buckhorn Wash

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Echoes 
Flapjack Tower T 
Fools Paradise T 
Groovin' at the Beach T 
Haagenschlong 
I'm Rick James, Bitch S 
James Tower AKA The Lightblub T 
Jamison Engineering T 
Life During Wartime 
Outhouse Tower - Mallory's Mountain Marmalade 
Short Stack T 
Soup Kitchen S 
Whale, The T 
Wisdom Tooth - Cryptogramic Forest T 

Lower Buckhorn Wash Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on Oct 22, 2002
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Scenic picture looking right at Chocolate Wall. P...

Description 

There are several concentrations of routes on walls just off the road and up the sidecanyons including the Sex Wall and Pine Canyon Wall. Most of the routes require you to find a break in the Chinle to access the climbs.

Getting There 

Lower Buckhorn Wash routes extend north from the San Rafael River into the Buckhorn Wash up to a large camping area on the righthand side of the road. The campsites are at the base of a narrow wash, and there are several climbs on the buttress immediately past the wash with slings at the 100' mark that provide a good landmark. This camping area is around three miles from the bridge over the San Rafael.

Climbing Season



Weather station 20.5 miles from here

14 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',3],['5.10',2],['5.11',5],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lower Buckhorn Wash

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lower Buckhorn Wash:
Flapjack Tower   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   
Haagenschlong   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1     Aid, 3 pitches   
Outhouse Tower - Mallory's Mountain Marmalade   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A1+     Aid, 2 pitches, 150'   
James Tower AKA The Lightblub   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 200'   
Jamison Engineering   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Short Stack   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Soup Kitchen   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 84'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lower Buckhorn Wash

Featured Route For Lower Buckhorn Wash
Rock Climbing Photo: Soup Kitchen

Soup Kitchen 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  Utah : San Rafael Swell : ... : Lower Buckhorn Wash
This route is on the Flapjack Tower. It starts midway through the corridor that separates Flapjack Tower from the cliff band. This route has a little bit of everything. Jugs, small holds, sandy feet, and maybe even a finger lock or two. Tops out on the very top of the tower....[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Lower Buckhorn Wash Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Wyatt Edwards about to start the Bombay Chimney on...
Wyatt Edwards about to start the Bombay Chimney on...

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By Brian Milhaupt
From: Golden, CO
Dec 17, 2002
Correction: 2.3 miles from the bridge