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Arete (aka 3-Star Arete) S 
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Arete (aka 3-Star Arete) 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Karl Guthrie, Joe Schwartz and Jordy Morgan (1986)
Page Views: 1,395
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Apr 30, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Description 

Located just left of the Mark's Moderate chimney/crack in the center of the Bear, this arete has some really fun moves with big holds on steep rock. After the third bolt, the climb moves onto the crystal-filled face to the left of the arete. Don't know why it doesn't have a name, but it deserves one.

Protection 

Four bolts lead to a two bolt anchor with chains. A little sling is nice for the first bolt.


Comments on Arete (aka 3-Star Arete) Add Comment
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By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Nov 15, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Bring a 2 foot draw for the first bolt or expect your rope to get chewed on. Nice route.
By Dan Austin
From: San Francisco, CA
Sep 8, 2013

Very fun climb, definitely deserves a name and hopefully is not overlooked for the lack of one! And yeah, an extendable on the first bolt is a pro tip.
By Pat H
From: Berkeley, CA
Apr 13, 2014

In Jim Thornburg's Bay Area Rock this is called "3-Star Arete". The guidebook also shows five bolts before the anchors, but MP is correct--there are only four. Fun climb!
By Thue Madsen
Nov 29, 2016

While climbing a few other routes yesterday at the bear, my partner climbed the arete and told that the fourth bolt is a pretty loose button head with the hanger spinning. Also the anchor was very rusty.

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