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Lowenbrau Light 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 1,867
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Jan 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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One more photo of a climber (Jojo Matson) leading ...


Start at the dead oak on a ledge. This climb follows a left-facing corner system directly up the face from the tree. It deviates from it only where it follows a vegetated crack to the left to avoid an overhang with a seam at the base of it. Once past that, stand up in the crack and continue up the corner. There are a few chossier blocks, but otherwise it is an excellent route on good rock.

The crux is encountered at an awkward spot only 10m from the oak tree.


Standard rack.

Photos of Lowenbrau Light Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading out on my birthday climb.  01/02/2010.
Leading out on my birthday climb. 01/02/2010.
Rock Climbing Photo: First two pitches of Lowenbrau Light and Black Vel...
BETA PHOTO: First two pitches of Lowenbrau Light and Black Vel...
Rock Climbing Photo: Zack Libbin leads out on Lowenbrau Light. (the ang...
Zack Libbin leads out on Lowenbrau Light. (the ang...
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott Jones at the starting crux of the route.
BETA PHOTO: Scott Jones at the starting crux of the route.

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By Aaron Hobson
From: Clinton, TN
Jan 23, 2006

We did this route in one long pitch (~50m) and set up a belay on a comfortable ledge adjacent to the pitch2 belay ledge for Black Velvet. From here there are several variations for the finish. You can continue up on 5.7 or easier climbing to top. You could also head right toward the large roof and into a crack system which is rated 5.8. We were running out of time, and chose to scramble/down-climb left to the anchors at the rappel station at the top of Irish Creme. These anchors should be visible off to the left, and provide a quicker exit than continuing up another pitch and scrambling east to the rappel on Five Easy Steps.

Anchors at top of Irish Creme are about 120' to a ledge. It is possible to descend using a single 60m rope by easy down-climbing in a wide chimney.
By ascender30
Mar 14, 2011

Use long slings to avoid drag and you don't need to stop at the "Natural Belay" in the photo. It's around 165' to the "Gear Belay". The option from there to the left and up the right-facing corner is fun and easier than it looks from below.
By el guapo
Dec 12, 2012

Great route. Opening pitch was exciting and enjoyable. We had a hanging belay in a vertical crack, short of the nice ledge. Worked right and up through cracks. Super route...although don't drink a gallon of "jail ale" or The Anniversary Ale from High Desert Brewery in Las Cruces the night before...
By Marta Reece
From: Las Cruces, NM
Jan 12, 2014

Looking for a warmup? Lowenbrau Light is a good climb, but with its crux start it does not provide an ideal warmup. The level of difficulty is also not as different from Black Velvet as the numbers would indicate. It's more like 5.8- for Lowenbrau and 5.8+ for Black Velvet, rather than the 5.7+ and 5.9 listed. (Margaritaville, listed for some unfathomable reason as 5.8+, is the hardest of the three of them at about 5.9+.) So what to do? You probably don't want One Shot at 5.6, short, and filthy dirty toward the top, or Five East Steps at mere 5.5. The best warmup I have found is the first pitch of Best Bitters. The route is listed as a 5.9+, and it is that, but the first pitch is 5.7. There are only a couple of 5.7 moves - the awkward flake near the start and a bit of slab on the way to the column soon after. They are not the world's easiest to protect though. Then there is a bit of layback on the column, but other than that the pitch is easy. It ends at the smalish bush/tree with some tat on it. You can rap from there or take Five Easy Steps to the regular rappel chains. It's not ideal, but it's the best I know of on Southern Comfort. But who knows? For you Lowenbrau Light might be just the ticket, or you may know of a better one.
By Karl Kiser
Jan 22, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I like to climb the route in three shorter pitches (the old SWM topo). The largest piece necessary is a blue Camalot.

1) climb up the left facing weakness to just below a roof;
2) climb left and up to a good stance (about level with the second belay for Black Velvet);
3) traverse left, enter a right facing dihedral and go to the top.
By Josh Hamling
Nov 21, 2016
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The oak tree is no longer on the ledge. It looks like it was knocked off by the storm a couple weeks ago.

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