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Lowe Variation 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: George and Jeff Lowe, 1967
Page Views: 1,626
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on May 19, 2006

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Not sure what I am trying to find over there.

Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon. MORE INFO >>>


A flaring hand to offhand crack that is way flakey. This crack is rather fun, has lots of great moves but felt way insecure, and Oh yes...was not a 5.8. The book calls it a 5.8, I will go with 5.10a. Very steep and very flaring with nary a rest. I had a hard time picking out a crux as most of the climb was cruxy. This climb rated 2 stars due to the length (great), rock quality (not so great, but would be better if more people climbed it), tree in the middle of the route (I climbed through it, also not so good), and consistency of the grade (great). Get on this route. It could use a better anchor system.


First crack west of the Great Cleft. This climbs throught the rightmost crack stepping left when this dies passing over, through, or around a pine tree, and continuing to the ledge with a slung chockstone.


A range of cams, as the flaring nature isn't kind to nuts. Medium to large nuts would work well in some situations. By the time I got to the top, my largest cam I had left was a yellow Metolius. I used everything from #4 Camalot down. Slings in case the ones at the belay station ar no good.

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By steve santora
Oct 18, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I also did this route for a warm up before Arm and Hammer. I agree it was or seemed harder than 5-8. Flary and gritty. Not sure it is 5-10 though. As I think if I went up and did it again I'd probably rate it in the 5-9 range. It did feel a bit insecure though.. Oh jesus or god.......
By Rob T
Oct 18, 2006

wow, i didn't think i was old enough for the old guy trick of just waiting to climb harder(i.e. no need to train, just wait for people to upgrade what you've done). agreed that this thing felt desperate and insecure, but that's what obsurity in the wasatch is all about.

just in case any other parties feel compelled to continue to the top, as we did when much younger and dumber, bring some hardware to leave. we found a single dead bush w/ a piece of crispy, white(not orignal color) webbing tied around. down leading did make for one of those interesting "learning experinences" though.
By Jello
Jun 17, 2007

Brian and Nate, this is actually the first pitch of a route George and I called Easy Way Up, which goes to the top of Middle Bell. I was 16 at the time and didn't know much about grading. I led this pitch and George followed, saying "Nice lead. About 5.8". So, to me, that's what 5.8 meant. The rest of the route (rated 5.7), is rated in the same fashion.
By bsmoot
Jun 22, 2007

Hi Jeff:

Thanks for your comments.

Were you wearing those after ski boots? ...smiles. How old was George at the time? How did the rest of the climb go?
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Nov 5, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a nice crack but unfortunately it is quite gritty and very vegetated. I think it would be 5.8 if it were cleaned up and saw more traffic.

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