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Lowe Blow 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 210'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: George Lowe, Eric Eliason, 1968
Page Views: 4,351
Submitted By: Vince Romney on Mar 1, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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Annie climbing the top pitch of Lowe Blow while we...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Ruckmans only give this one star, but I gave it two if only because it is a great off-width test piece. I climbed this first back in the early 80's, and again last spring in March, when it was beautiful, sunny and surprisingly warm. The first pitch is a cruise up to the two-bolt belay. From here the crack lulls you in with a couple of good jams, but as it angles left and steepens, it widens to just beyond good hand-stacks and requires strenous arm-bars and knee stuffs. If you have plenty of big stuff you can zip it up with pro, but it remains sustained to the top few feet where it again closes to a reasonable width. Enjoy and become the off-width master!


Bring a full rack minus the micros, heavy on the big stuff (up to 6") for the second pitch.

Photos of Lowe Blow Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Following... 2002
Following... 2002
Rock Climbing Photo: 1) Leggo My Eggo  2) Variety Delight  3) Just Say ...
BETA PHOTO: 1) Leggo My Eggo 2) Variety Delight 3) Just Say ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Great day out with Stu!!
Great day out with Stu!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Recovering from the Lowe Blow I'd received
Recovering from the Lowe Blow I'd received
Rock Climbing Photo: In the wide goods aisle
In the wide goods aisle
Rock Climbing Photo: Won't be smiling after too long....
Won't be smiling after too long....
Rock Climbing Photo: Last known photograph before starting the second p...
Last known photograph before starting the second p...
Rock Climbing Photo: Variety Delight and Lowe Blow. You can see by the ...
Variety Delight and Lowe Blow. You can see by the ...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 24, 2016
By Vince Romney
Jul 26, 2004

This would bee the large, left-angled crack on the east side of the Egg fomration. The first few moves to the bottom crack on the first pitch are unprotected, but easy.
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

a good grunt. old school 5.9
By Nathan Fisher
Apr 8, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Sweet route. It has a little of everything. Probably my favorite on the Egg.
By Mark Michaels
From: Draper, UT
Oct 28, 2006

Agree with Troy. Nothing bigger than a 3 camalot is required...placements in deep are sufficient.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Oct 2, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Agree on the grunt and not needing anything bigger than 3 cam - how often do you find an OW that doesn't require huge cams?
By Michael Buchanan
Sep 2, 2010

Originally called the Dog Leg in Smith's Wasatch Granite Book. P1 was 5.6 P2 face was 5.8 and the offwidth was 5.9.

By d-know
From: electric lady land
Mar 22, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

just did this one again. Heads up climbing right off the
belay with minimal pro maybe 5.8ish. for the meat of the crack
i went left side in with the crux being getting past a constriction
about 10-15 feet into the main crack and eases up after the big
chicken head on the right side of the crack.
i got the feeling that 9+ was the high end limit of grades given
at the time of the f.a. and know of some 10+ crack climbers
who got shut down on this rig. as stated previously, the route
protects adequately with finger and hand size pro
and should be on any local self respecting crack climbers radar.
By Fett
Oct 17, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Bring a #4 if you dont like reaching deep into the crack for smaller pro. I also found some good gear in the flaring crack at the start of the second pitch. Some good quality rock and a stout 5.9+, i wonder why lol.
By Ben Folsom
Oct 17, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Good done in one pitch from the ground. I agree with Fett and was happy to have a #4. Lots of great crack climbing on this.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Mar 24, 2012

I was "blown" away by the quality of this line. Obviously the most prominent line on the egg and a quality one. Only one star Brett and Stuart? Stingy choice in my opinion. But I enjoy cracks that require full body intimacy. Tough flailing was enjoyed by all 3 members of our party with the crux being the first 15 feet of the crack. Don't even think about bringing a #5 camalot, and even bringing the #3 or #4 camalots are worthless. I had 2 of each on my harness when I started up and they were still there when I reached the anchor. Definitely do it in one pitch. Thank you Mr. Lowe.
By BobGray
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Apr 8, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Classic!!!! Must do off-width in LCC, nothing like getting your butt handed to you by old school 5.9+! Definitely protects well with smaller gear, but I liked having a #3 and #4.
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Mar 19, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

**** Because it is a stand out pitch in the Wasatch. On par with Gordon's Hangover for 5.9+ greatness.
By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 26, 2013

Regarding whether one should haul up big gear: .75-#3 camalots protect just fine for much of the route (I took 2 of each; used them all). A few smaller pieces are nice. I also took a #4 and a #5 camalot, and I was glad I had them. They are useful to bump up as you climb for added security, but they are by no means necessary to climb the route safely.

We did it in one pitch, which I recommend. Also, don't fall from the first 15' of pitch two - insecure flared crack with bad pro.

All in all, a fantastic climb.
By Jim Howe
From: Salt Lake city
May 23, 2016

Doing the route in 1 pitch gave me lots of rope drag despite long runners and just 3 clips in the first half. The crux became pulling up rope, Next time I'd break it up. its a LCC classic.
By H.Lime
May 23, 2016

I think as you get more experienced these kind of problems will become less of an issue.
By bheller
From: SL UT
May 25, 2016

Yeah, Strong Jim...what a noob;)
By Tom Hore
Jun 5, 2016

Jim you might also ask your local climbing shop to special order some longer slings. I think you will find them very understanding and helpful.
Also over the urinal at the climbing gym I believe I saw a class offered on runners and slings. Good luck in your new climbing career.
By Crag Turkey
From: Holladay, UT
Oct 24, 2016

Classic! The linkup would be a pretty sweet package deal, but drag will be an issue if you don't read the route well. Personally I found a single rack to 3 and double 4's offered great protection on the second pitch. I lugged a 6 up there and did use it to bump and protect the crux moves, but ended up taking it with me so that I could climb in the crack where it was protecting me. Using small pro keeps the wider sections of the crack open for you. That being said I would at least bring one 4 if I did it again. Also Id save a #2 for the top or double up. could easily take a double rack of hand size gear. That chicken head was so damn glorious. By no means am I an OW guy, but this one is totally worth the grunt and glory!

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