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1-Gastlosen
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Low Slab Left 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: TR Corey Todd
Page Views: 38
Submitted By: kenr on Nov 10, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Gastlosen sector 0: low slab Left side

Description 

Worthwhile slab climbing, if that's what you're looking for.

Not sure about the exact route because though I belayed the first climber, there wasn't time for me to try it myself.

Find the interesting (or easy) way for your climbing style, finishing up to the wide grassy ramp which goes up diagonal through the middle of the main Gastlosen cliff.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location 

At the bottom of the main Gastlosen cliff, likely somewhere around the lowest point -- whatever seems to work.

Protection 

Top-Roping: Likely could be done by adding a sling to the rappel anchor which just below the outer edge of the wide grassy ramp which goes up diagonal left-to-right through the middle of the main Gastlosen cliff.
. . (for the type of hardware used in this anchor, see Description page for Gastlosen sector).

If linking with the High Center Left route in the upper part above the grassy ramp, then need to use an anchor at the top of the upper part of this cliff, and belay the climber from the top - (because a single rope would not be long enough to belay from the bottom, and tying two ropes together would have too much rope stretch).
warning: Because of stretching of the rope, a falling climber on the lower slab so far below the top could go down a substantial distance and hit something hard, so better to use a less stretchy rope for this (more "static"), or at least keep lots of tension in the rope while belaying.

For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Gastlosen sector.

Leading? Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.


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