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Low Slab Direct 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: TR Ken Roberts
Page Views: 22
Submitted By: kenr on Nov 10, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Gastlosen sector of Silver Fork crag B. Low Slab L...

Description 

This seemed to have the steepest section on the low part of the Gastlosen cliff. But the steep is not sustained, so most of the route is easier.

Start a few feet right of a substantial tree stump. Up a little ways gentle to reach the steeper section. Once through that, straight up to meet the wide grassy ramp.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location 

Near the right end of the bottom of the main Gastlosen cliff, not far off the obvious gully. A ways right from the lowest point of the cliff bottom. A few feet right from substantial tree stump.

- - > See on this Photo

Protection 

Top-Roping: Not easy to build a secure anchor near the point on the wide grassy ramp which is near the top of this route. As of 2016, there is no bolt anchor near the top this route - (The two-bolt rappel anchor is well to the left below the top of this route, so not suitable for belaying a climber on this route).

A different approach is to construct an anchor at the top of the upper part of this cliff, and belay the climber from the top - (because a single rope would not be long enough to belay from the bottom, and tying two ropes together would have too much rope stretch).
warning: Because of stretching of the rope, a falling climber on the lower slab so far below the top could go down a substantial distance and hit something hard, so better to use a less stretchy rope for this (more "static"), or at least keep lots of tension in the rope while belaying.

For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Gastlosen sector.

Leading? Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.


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