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Buttress of Cracks - Right Side
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Low Pressure 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Tobin Sorenson
Page Views: 690
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jan 26, 2006

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This is a short, steep lieback on good rock, with easy hand jamming above the roof. The crack will accept wired nuts or tiny cams, but it is very difficult to see into the crack and place gear while leading. Fortunately, it is easy to set up a toprope. This route receives morning sun.


thin gear for the crux; medium size pieces on the hand crack above

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By Darshan Ahluwalia
From: Petaluma, CA
Jun 11, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

This is not 10a by any means. It is much harder than Pitch 3 of El Camino Real (10a layback) and more sustained than On The Road (10c layback). I'd say its at least 10c.

Difficult to protect as mentioned in the description.
By Murf
Jun 13, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The new guidebook gives this route .10c, marking the initial part ".10" and the roof ".10c". IMO, the initial layback on lead is probably .10d, due in large part to the difficulty in finding solid gear. I wouldn't give the pitch an R, because good gear is available. I think the roof is easier than .10c as well.
By Randy in Ridgecrest
From: Inyokern, CA
May 22, 2012

I saw a fellow pop from up by the roof and deck on the ledge. Made a horrible hollow sound. He was battered but basically OK.
By DannyJ
From: San Diego, CA
Jul 8, 2017
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Fun route, but I didn't think the start (or any part of the route) was very difficult to protect. You can look into the crack before you start and pre-plan your first couple pieces. Takes .5s really easily. Definitely did not think it was "R."
By Tony Miller
Aug 15, 2017

I noticed High pressure variation isn't listed. You can stuff your toe into the roof crack, then reach out over the roof for a handhold, then drop both legs before swinging them up onto the face above the roof. 11a/b.

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