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Pink Face
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Fraggle Rock S 
Leave No Trace T 
Low-hanging Fruit S 
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Shell of A Man S 
Toorete S 
Wowie Zowie S 

Low-hanging Fruit 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Erik Wolfe/Morgan Nutting
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 418
Submitted By: MisterE Wolfe on Mar 3, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: Topo To Pink Wall


From the big ledge that shares the start of "Wowie Zowie": Either climb straight up (avoiding the ledge to the right) for the 5.10 bit past the first three bolts, or scramble up and right through clean ledges and clip the third bolt for the 5.9 variation.

Either way, climb past steep edges and pockets on great rock, then finish with a balancy exit.


Far right side of Pink Face - scramble up an easy groove to gain the start.


8 bolts, Mussy hooks

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By Maidy
Apr 6, 2016

Fun climb on edges and pockets.

This climb originally started at the third bolt after climbing up the groove and that version was rated 5.9 Leaders can still climb it this way if they have trouble with the low crux of the direct start.

From the top of this climb it is very easy to swing over and clip a directional on the Wowie Zowie anchor if you would like to TR the 10aR climb and the fun 5.8 trad crack climb.
By James Barnett
From: Bishop Ca.
Jun 3, 2016

This route feels more like 5.9 even with the direct start. Its a bit easier than Wowie Zowie. Just my thought.
By Ari G
Sep 5, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Some fun crimpy moves. I found this WAY harder than nearby Director's Cut 10a. Direct up the first few bolts felt 10c/d. Low crux before the first bolt with a potentially nasty fall off the ledge -- I felt much safer clipping it from the 5.9 variation before trying the direct start.
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Dec 28, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Fun climbing on solid rock, but I second James' thought that this is easier than Wowie Zowie regardless of the start. I'd also give this climb a PG13 rating because I'm fairly certain that a fall on the first few bolts means landing in the corner.
By MisterE Wolfe
From: Bishop, CA
Dec 30, 2016

"I'd also give this climb a PG13 rating..."

FYI, you can easily stem back onto the ledge if you have any trepidation climbing or clipping "on the face" anywhere during the first three bolts.
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Jan 1, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

"I'd also give this climb a PG13 rating..."

I'm not thinking about what you 'can' do, but rather what happens in a fall. There's a difference between stepping back and stemming across in a controlled manner vs. slipping and taking a fall (when trying to make the next clip for example).
By MisterE Wolfe
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 15, 2017

I concede your point, Old5ten.

There is a ledge, yes. Our original intent was a 5.9 with an "PG" scramble to the transition to the face. The lower part seemed good as a lead option.

The sport route to the left also has ledge-fall potential.

People should be careful.
By BAd
Sep 8, 2017
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Folks should use a stick clip for this if they feel sketchy about the first clip. I would DEFINITELY stick clip the first bolt on Wowie to the left. Direct with no back stepping, this is solid 5.10, although we would not got c/d. Great climbing!


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