Type: Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Ben Kiessel, Ian McAlexander and Brad Brandewie
Page Views: 2,832 total · 15/month
Shared By: Brad Brandewie on Mar 8, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is an excellent route up one of the biggest towers in Spring Canyon. The route follows an obvious, natural line and offers engaging climbing on mostly solid rock. There are some loose spots on the third pitch but they're short lived and not too bad. The rest of the route more than makes up for it.

Pitch One - Find the obvious right facing dihedral that faces the road and climb it to the top of Purge Pillar. The gear is thin at the start. Belay from two bolts. (5.10+)

Pitch Two - Step left and climb the 3.5" to 4.5" offwidth past a couple pods. The crack then tapers down to thin hands in a shallow right facing dihedral for a long way. Belay on a ledge with two bolts. (5.11)

Pitch Three - Climb over a small roof and continue up corners passing some loose rock along the way. Belay from gear (.75 Camalot and big cams) on a good ledge below a wide crack in a corner. (5.10d)

Pitch Four - Layback up the offwidth and around a small roof to find fun and easy climbing all the way to the summit. (5.8)

Protection Suggest change

2 sets of cams from black Alien to #3 Camalot
3 .75 Camalots
3 #1 Camalots
3 old #4 Camalots
1 4.5 Camalot
1 old #5 Camalot
1 set of nuts

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