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Wall 1
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Slight Problem Along the Way T 
Another Quick Shower T 
Bar is Open, The T 
Cinquante Briques T 
Cinque Briquettes (variation) T 
Come On, Animals! TR 
Dancing Like a Nutter T 
Le Grande (L'Extension) T 
Le Petit Oiseau Mort T 
Lovely Snowball T 
More Romantic than Casablanca T 
That Bastard Gérard! T 
You Old Fool T 

Lovely Snowball 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Ches Upham, Chris Wing and Christian Hoffmann, 5/28/12
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 776
Submitted By: Jeff Mahoney on Apr 20, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Patrick Callery climbs through the awesome crux of...

Description 

The obvious and excellent straight-up crack line on the left of the wall. Definitely the standout here. Pro is a little iffy until about 30' up, but not an issue if you're solid at the grade.

Location 

Far left route on Wall 1.

Protection 

A rack of singles to 4" and a few extra finger pieces if you want to sew it up. (Pink, red & brown tri-cams and/or some offset nuts work well, too.)


Photos of Lovely Snowball Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ches in the middle of some serious gardening on th...
Ches in the middle of some serious gardening on th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Great anchor-building options at the top. Chris Wi...
Great anchor-building options at the top. Chris Wi...
Rock Climbing Photo: The beauty that is "Lovely Snowball"
BETA PHOTO: The beauty that is "Lovely Snowball"

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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
May 13, 2014

This route was the stand-out during a thoroughly enjoyable half-day spent at Panic Town. The first 2/3 of this route are simply incredible--the best and most interesting moderate crack climb that I have done this side of J-Tree or the Southern Sierra. Absolutely incredible.

Rather than climb through a tree near the top, we headed up and right, following a crack. This variation was very enjoyable and avoided the tree altogether.

The base of this wall is really nice--cool and shaded with open, flat ground.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Jul 27, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I agree with Matthew: one of the more engaging routes in the area of this grade and style. I also agree with Matthew's "variation" suggestion towards the top. As with many routes at Panic Town, you can climb left or right on to adjacent routes. Call it choose-your-own-adventure.
By Jeff Mahoney
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jul 29, 2014

Yep, that sumac needs a haircut. ("Soon," says Bueller...). Since you're here, I highly recommend getting on "Another Quick Shower" just to the right. Not to be missed if you're hanging out at Wall 1.
By Robert Holder
Jun 1, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Super fun route. Alternating sections of good crack (finger locks and/or good edges on the face) separated by big stances to set gear from. Nuts and cams below up to .75 are most useful. Sling larger blocks/knobs or make a gear anchor with pro up to 4" (you can leave the 3-4" pro at home if you have long slings/cordelette for the knobs/trees on top).

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