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Loveland Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Loveland

Alternate Approach crags 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Beak Boulder Area 10 / 9 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19

Beluga Boulders 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Bond Boulders, The 11 / 5 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18

Crocodile Rock 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Junction Hillside 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Loveland North 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Majestic Rock 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Morongo Man Cliffs 4 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

Tiger Rocks 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Vector Rock 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Workout Rock 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

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Elevation:	3,967 ft
GPS:	34.02388, -116.052 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	89,031 total · 347/month
Shared By:	Vernon Stiefel on Mar 30, 2003
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Loveland consists of myriad boulders and crags on the hillsides above washes 1-2 miles north of Split Rock.

Most of the routes in this area were established by seminal climbers in the 1980's and ascend slabs, faces, and cracks of varying widths on fair to excellent quality rock. Vector (5.11c), one of the best trad climbs in the Park, is located in Loveland.

Even though this area is relatively close to Split Rock, the approach to many of the crags involves boulder hopping and/or navigating through desert scrub and cacti on steep terrain. However, many fine routes may be found on crags that require circuitous or cumbersome approaches.

Getting There

The best way to access Loveland is to park at Split Rock and follow the trail that heads north. Looking north, the Tiger Rocks and Bond Boulders are easily seen near the trailhead.

As soon as the trail veers in a northwest direction toward the Morongo Man Cliffs, continue north in a wash and over rolling terrain for a mile to the Tiger Rocks and Bond Boulders.

The other crags are found on the slopes on either side of the Desert Queen Wash which is located about 1/2 mile north of the Bond Boulders.

68 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Loveland

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 11 ● Totally Tubular Trad Beak Boulder Area
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 6 ● Desert Queen Trad Beak Boulder Area
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 10 ● Beak of the Week Sport Beak Boulder Area
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 4 ● The Loose Man Sport Bond Boulders > Loose Man Rock
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 21 ● Bath Water Sport Beak Boulder Area
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 18 ● Modern Warfare Trad Beak Boulder Area
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 7 ● I Get By With A Little Help From… Trad Crocodile Rock
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 9 ● Eva Las Vegas Sport Bond Boulders > RCA Boulder
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 16 ● Kamikaze Crack Trad Beak Boulder Area
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 5 ● Live and Let Die Trad Bond Boulders > Live & Let Die Boulder
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 5 ● RCA Trad Bond Boulders > RCA Boulder
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 7 ● One Armed Giant Trad Tiger Rocks
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 61 ● Vector Trad Vector Rock
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 9 ● Morongo Man Trad Morongo Man Cliffs
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a 8 ● Throbbing Gristle Trad, TR Beak Boulder Area