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YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C2-

Type:  Trad, Aid, 9 pitches, 900', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C2- [details]
FA: Dave Jones & Gary Gray in 1983, FFA: Topher Donahue & Kennan Harvey, April 1995
Page Views: 3,066
Submitted By: bsmoot on Mar 12, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Neil Kauffman in the wild and wide chimney, P8 of ...

Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


This grade IV or V route features great rock in a spectacular setting. Climbs an ever widening crack to the top. The view looking down on the fang is fantastic. The free version is 5.12

P1 - Ascend a short approach pitch to a left facing corner.(5.6)
P2 - Ascend corner 5.10 to a narrow ledge.
P3 - Move belay right and up along a "thank God" type ledge.
P4 - Ascend thin splitters for 160' to a ledge (C2 or 5.12).
P5 - Jam a perfect hand crack (5.9) to a stance below a shallow chimney.
P6 - Climb the chimney for 40'. Traverse left to an improbable flake. Ascend this to a cool ledge (5.9) Amazing pitch.
P7 - Climb the 5.10 offwidth above to a belay below a deep chimney.
P8 - The slick bombay chimney above (5.9) ends at a hanging belay inside the chimney...Wow!
P9 - Climb the heads up squeeze chimney & offwidth to the top (5.9+)

Rap route...50m ropes will work.


This classic, striking crack system is located just left of, and behind the fang spire.


3 sets TCU's, 3-4 sets cams up to a #5 camalot. Many small to medium nuts. Bring some big cams too.

Photos of Lovelace Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Topher Donahue on the crux pitch of Lovelace Free ...
Topher Donahue on the crux pitch of Lovelace Free ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fang Wall pitch 2 corner.
Fang Wall pitch 2 corner.
Rock Climbing Photo: Neil Kauffman finishes up the 5.9 flake on P5 of L...
Neil Kauffman finishes up the 5.9 flake on P5 of L...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jonathan wiggling up the short but stout pitch 7
Jonathan wiggling up the short but stout pitch 7
Rock Climbing Photo: Flared fists of pitch 6
Flared fists of pitch 6
Rock Climbing Photo: The notorious pitch 8 chimney
BETA PHOTO: The notorious pitch 8 chimney

Comments on Lovelace Add Comment
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By Crusty McGumby
Jan 29, 2016

We made it to the top of 8. Did not send but thought the route was outstanding to there. Ran out of gas and time. Didn't need sixes till the 8th pitch chimney where it was comforting approaching the spaced pins. We found that small cams were nice on the c2 or 5.12 pitch. All the drilled angles were still bomber, most of the bolts are spinning. Bring tat, we were running low. In short, the route is classic, kudos to those who can free that piece, and dave jones is a boss.
By Neil Kauffman
Mar 12, 2017

Lovely route! Shaded until afternoon. Maybe OK with 2-#4Camalots, 2-#5 Camalots was enough, 1-#6 left a lot of bumping on the last 2 pitches but doable with the supplemental drilled angles. It's helpful to leave most of the rack behind for the last 3 pitches, bring a #3 and all the 4, 5, & 6 Camalots. The 6 and a quickdraw is all u need for the last pitch. ❤️

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