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The New River Wall
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Unsorted Routes:

Love Your Enemies  

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Brian Kimball
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,646
Submitted By: Brian Kimball on Apr 28, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Raptor Closures - 2016 Tunnel 2 Closure Lifted / Upper Canyon Road closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb 3 bolts up the slab, then traverse left and upward to join and finish on Public Enemy.

Protection 

Bolts.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 9, 2016
By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Apr 28, 2011

Nice work, Brian, thanks for all your hard work at The New River Area, it's awesome! Can't wait to get on it!
By Keith H. North
From: Englewood, CO
May 3, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I am with Brian, the route felt a little soft to me. It is very much my style though and with out a doubt the best 12b in the canyon.

It also makes a wonderful warm up for climbing on almost anything else at the wall.
By Keith H. North
From: Englewood, CO
Jun 5, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I have no clue, dude. Someone altered your bolt???
By Wade
Jun 22, 2011

I did not retro bolt this route, a bolt was pulling out, so I added a extra one, I would have pulled it out, but it wouldn't come loose, I yellow tagged it, so no one would use it. By the description that Brian gave, this route is what I though was Public Enemy. Brian, you can leave the name, I like it. I'd say 12b or c?

wader
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 13, 2012

I did this route the same day after finishing Sonic last summer. I was amazed with how good the route was. A little airy and spooky which makes it super fun! It's got a great overhanging traverse on big jugs. The crux is at the very top when the jugs thin out and you have to do some big moves as the pump culminates. Amazing route, thanks for putting it up. This rivals the best 5.12b anywhere, with great climbing, great position on bullet hard beautiful stone. Do it!
By slim
Administrator
Oct 16, 2012

Agree with Monty. I've seen this happen several times - the nut works its way loose over time and is just hanging on by a thread. Then it pops off when the rope is weighted.
By James D
Mar 27, 2015

Can someone explain the anchors being gone on this route?
It looks like the anchor is gone and the route is extended, and I was wondering how hard the rest of the route is now?
By Stephen Felker
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 5, 2015
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This route follows two bolts up the slab and then cuts left onto the face. The third bolt on the slab has been stripped of its hanger, but it isn't needed (too high, increased drag). Then follow four bolts left and up to a one bolt anchor with a chain draw in the roof.
By kch16
From: Denver, CO
Mar 12, 2016

I parked at the New River Wall today to go High Wire. There were two signs posted on the road clearly stating the areas and dates of closure, with the New River Wall being one of the areas closed to climbing until July 31 due to raptor nesting. However, there was a guy working this route (or it could have been Public Enemy he was one but can't be sure cuz I've never climbed on this wall) being belayed by some chick.
By DisturbingThePeace
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Mar 16, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Kch16, New River Wall and the trail to it are both open. Just be sure to stay in the US Route 6 corridor as you approach. With a close look at the sign, you can see the corridor that is still open.
From JeffCo website jeffco.us/open-space/news/2016... "another area of Clear Creek Canyon Park, near Tunnel 2, is closed to all public use uphill of the U.S. Route 6 corridor from February 1 through July 31 to protect an active golden eagle nesting territory. This closure encompasses the following rock climbing sites: Highlander, Evil Area, and Tetanus Garden."

Thanks to the rangers for keeping the corridor and New River Wall open!
By Michael Hauck
Mar 23, 2016
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Lead this route on gear yesterday, was really fun with thinner gear than you would expect. I used BD #1, 2, 0.4, and green, red, and yellow C3s!
By ANGUS WIESSNER
From: Denver Colorad
Nov 9, 2016

How many draws do you clip to the end of this route? Do you just finish at a single draw when you hit Public Enemy? It seemed amazing except for not knowing where people are climbing to to call it 12b. I climbed up the slab for two clips with super long draws then went left one draw past Public Enemy. Then it looked like one more draw which I assume would be the 13c Enjoy Your Youth. What I did seemed super high stars but felt maybe 12a not 12b. Any thoughts??? Reminded me of Orangahang at Rumney!!! but way easier.